As nice and tempting at these three soldiers look, I think this is one of those 'approach with care' situations.
I've never been to this spot (I understand it's somewhere in the Galapagos Islands), but something about the raw ocean power of these waves suggests surfing this spot would not be a walk in the park.
Source: http://www.purevacations.com
Thursday, 31 January 2013
Monday, 28 January 2013
Somewhere in Indo
I've been lucky enough to surf this spot before. It was during both of the two boat trips I've been on in Indo in the early 2000s.
Somehow I stumbled upon this photo on line so i thought I'd share it. Memories...
The surf spot is called Yo Yos
Yo Yos satellite photo
Source: theperfectwave.com.au
Somehow I stumbled upon this photo on line so i thought I'd share it. Memories...
The surf spot is called Yo Yos
Yo Yos satellite photo
Source: theperfectwave.com.au
Sunday, 27 January 2013
Unexpected treasure
Being summer back here at home, I've strangely found myself fascinated with winter surfing - particularly snow surfing (see also my post from Wednesday 23 January 2013).
My mate Michael sent me this link of a cold water spot in Canada.
Canadian point
Make sure you bring your thickest rubber though...
My mate Michael sent me this link of a cold water spot in Canada.
Canadian point
Make sure you bring your thickest rubber though...
Saturday, 26 January 2013
Tucked away out of the neighbours' view
If you hide away well enough, none of your neighbours will know it's pumping...
Source: sonnietrotter.com
Source: sonnietrotter.com
Friday, 25 January 2013
Paradise in the Pacific
Dreams can become reality - even if only momentarily.
This photo, from a remote island in the Pacific, reaffirms that it is indeed possible to have a high quality and uncrowded break just outside of your front door - even if only for a holiday.
I'm stuck in an office for most of my days, but I'm still dreaming (and saving) to make this dream happen.
Best of luck with your dreams...
Source: www.paolotripmaitrop.com
This photo, from a remote island in the Pacific, reaffirms that it is indeed possible to have a high quality and uncrowded break just outside of your front door - even if only for a holiday.
I'm stuck in an office for most of my days, but I'm still dreaming (and saving) to make this dream happen.
Best of luck with your dreams...
Source: www.paolotripmaitrop.com
Thursday, 24 January 2013
Wednesday, 23 January 2013
Bumper US winter
A San Deigan (USA) friend of Pam's has reportedly been scoring and enjoying some fantastic winter swells hitting California right now.
This photo of Sunset Cliffs was sent to Pam as it broke during, you guessed it, sunset last night.
Sunset Cliffs satellite photo
Keep those photos coming guys (email any material to: l.gorajek@gmail.com).
Photo: Justin
This photo of Sunset Cliffs was sent to Pam as it broke during, you guessed it, sunset last night.
Sunset Cliffs satellite photo
Keep those photos coming guys (email any material to: l.gorajek@gmail.com).
Photo: Justin
Tuesday, 22 January 2013
Snap-frozen walls
Surfing in winter can be cold...
... and then again it can be COLD!
Source: arcticsurfblog.com
Surfing in the snow is something that I expect would be something surreal to experience. I think given a thick enough wetsuit, a good enough night's sleep (the key ingredient to staying warm me thinks), and a few (very) motivated buddies, paddling out into something like this may not be thaaat hard.
And the added bonus of a point break meaning there is no duck-diving...
... and then again it can be COLD!
Source: arcticsurfblog.com
Surfing in the snow is something that I expect would be something surreal to experience. I think given a thick enough wetsuit, a good enough night's sleep (the key ingredient to staying warm me thinks), and a few (very) motivated buddies, paddling out into something like this may not be thaaat hard.
And the added bonus of a point break meaning there is no duck-diving...
Monday, 21 January 2013
The resolution's not great, but I think you get the picture...
I know I've said it a number of times already: I strongly believe there are great waves all over our wonderful planet - not only in the regions that are popularised in the popular and surfing media...
... This golden spot's in southern South America.
Source: www.surflockerchile.com
... This golden spot's in southern South America.
Source: www.surflockerchile.com
Sunday, 20 January 2013
Saturday, 19 January 2013
Birds eye view
I've started noticing surf footage starting to be taken from the air. From my own experience, these photographers/film makers use radio controlled helicopters with cameras mounted on them.
As noted by Michael, my mate who forwarded me this link, the new perspective this technique puts on surfing is really cool.
Despite the average quality of the output that is still needing to be refined, much the footage on this link is worth watching.
Aerial surf footage
As noted by Michael, my mate who forwarded me this link, the new perspective this technique puts on surfing is really cool.
Despite the average quality of the output that is still needing to be refined, much the footage on this link is worth watching.
Aerial surf footage
Friday, 18 January 2013
'Look Mum, no fins!'
Hawaii's Jamie O'Brien is a very capable surfer.
Often recognised for his ability to make deep pits look easy, this clip shows Jamie showcasing some of his more refined skills - his ability to surf without fins!
Footage: YouTube
Jamie not only transitions smoothly to this style of surfing, but makes it look easy. Kegs, tail-slides and spins are all part of his already impressive repetoire.
Often recognised for his ability to make deep pits look easy, this clip shows Jamie showcasing some of his more refined skills - his ability to surf without fins!
Jamie not only transitions smoothly to this style of surfing, but makes it look easy. Kegs, tail-slides and spins are all part of his already impressive repetoire.
Thursday, 17 January 2013
Amateur Indo fun
Watching the best of the best surf is great much of the time. The great surfers out there can teach us what is possible, and drive us to be better surfers ourselves. They can also make for great light viewing pleasure.
Sometimes though, it's also refreshing to see something a little more realistic - something that shows us what we can achieve within the next year or so, or on our next surfari.
This clip does just that for me. It shows regular and/or just above average surfers having a ball in conditions many of us can relate to.
Footage: YouTube
Sometimes though, it's also refreshing to see something a little more realistic - something that shows us what we can achieve within the next year or so, or on our next surfari.
This clip does just that for me. It shows regular and/or just above average surfers having a ball in conditions many of us can relate to.
Wednesday, 16 January 2013
Upon closer inspection...
I've already seen this photo of Cloudbreak before - not long after the memorable swell of 2012 hit it.
I've just recently stumbled upon the photo again and, I suppose with the assistance of time, had a look at it with fresh eyes.
Holly smokes! It's only now that I appreciate how big and wide this wave actually is. If you compare it to the board in the lip (the one that's about to be turned into a million splinters), or the guys paddling out, you can appreciate how one could play a game of indoor tennis in that pit!
Hugh-uuuuuuge!
What still impresses me to this day is that all of these guys in the shot are paddling into these monsters.
Source: www.surfline.com
I've just recently stumbled upon the photo again and, I suppose with the assistance of time, had a look at it with fresh eyes.
Holly smokes! It's only now that I appreciate how big and wide this wave actually is. If you compare it to the board in the lip (the one that's about to be turned into a million splinters), or the guys paddling out, you can appreciate how one could play a game of indoor tennis in that pit!
Hugh-uuuuuuge!
What still impresses me to this day is that all of these guys in the shot are paddling into these monsters.
If you're looking for somewhere to park those trucks... |
Tuesday, 15 January 2013
South Australian juicies
My surfing friend back home, prone to some Internet surfing of his own, forwarded me some links to photos so as to remind me what quality the state of South Australia can produce.
Unfortunately for you, some of these spots are either secret or semi-secret, so I can't share their locations with you.
Steam train
Unknown perfection
Playtime
Heavier than it looks
Sure, world-famous coastlines are globally recognised for their surf potential, but these shots prove that lesser-known coastlines can also produce some quality juice...
Unfortunately for you, some of these spots are either secret or semi-secret, so I can't share their locations with you.
Steam train
Unknown perfection
Playtime
Heavier than it looks
Sure, world-famous coastlines are globally recognised for their surf potential, but these shots prove that lesser-known coastlines can also produce some quality juice...
Monday, 14 January 2013
Could you handle the odd bump?
This photo, with the long shadows, is most probably of a sweet dawny.
Dawn can often bring morning sickness over surf, and you can see that slight wobble affecting these little gems.
Sweet lines regardless...
Source: www.surfline.com
Dawn can often bring morning sickness over surf, and you can see that slight wobble affecting these little gems.
Sweet lines regardless...
I'm sure some poor, well-intentioned surfer slept in on this golden morning... |
Sunday, 13 January 2013
A playful little pit
Our wonderful planet just keeps dishing up sweet spot after sweet spot. On the back of that thought, we humans are really just starting to dabble with artificial waves. These may help us to practice moves and get 'cheap' pits, but they will never be able to replace the soul and thrill of doing the real thing amongst nature!
This guy's doing the real thing on a gentle little peeler he found somewhere. A clip well worth watching me thinks...
Footage: YouTube
After you've sussed this footage out, please find out where this spot is, let me know, and burn all evidence you may have of its existence!
This guy's doing the real thing on a gentle little peeler he found somewhere. A clip well worth watching me thinks...
After you've sussed this footage out, please find out where this spot is, let me know, and burn all evidence you may have of its existence!
Saturday, 12 January 2013
Magnificent
I've said many times before that there are many different things we surfers dream about when thinking of great waves. One of the most common things we agree upon would surely have to be the dream of ultra glassy conditions?
On that note, I wouldn't exactly call the conditions below 'lumpy'...
Source: www.swellnet.com.au
On that note, I wouldn't exactly call the conditions below 'lumpy'...
Hey! Stop checking out your reflection off the water and go for it! |
Friday, 11 January 2013
A closer look at a famous right
The clip I posted a few days ago, discussing what makes the Banzai Pipeline fire, was quite well received.
Enthused with this motivation, I'm posting a link that looks into what makes Jeffreys Bay, one of the world's best rights, so special.
If you can get past the first few slides that talk it up as the best righthander of all time - a foolishly big call for mind - the detailed explanation they give is fascinating, educational and eye-opening.
Jeffreys Bay: an inside look
For me, the points they make about wave refraction and swell shadows are particularly insightful.
Enthused with this motivation, I'm posting a link that looks into what makes Jeffreys Bay, one of the world's best rights, so special.
If you can get past the first few slides that talk it up as the best righthander of all time - a foolishly big call for mind - the detailed explanation they give is fascinating, educational and eye-opening.
Jeffreys Bay: an inside look
For me, the points they make about wave refraction and swell shadows are particularly insightful.
Thursday, 10 January 2013
Regular Aussie blokes exploring and scoring
The Great Barrier Reef is immediately synonymous with coral, fish, scuba diving and holidaying. I doubt 'getting pitted' is what comes to mind for many when discussing this world-famous natural wonder.
This clip may change all of that for some!
Footage: YouTube
I enjoyed watching this clip for many reasons.
Yes, this is a fantastic quality 'Indoesque' wave - only that it's a righty.
I do love a good explore and a bit of adventure - and that is what this video is all about. These blokes heard a rumour, did their research, waited patiently for the right conditions, and jumped at the opportunity when everything lined up perfectly. These guys totally deserve what they scored for mind.
The most charming part for me though, is the blokes that surf it. They are all regular guys - none of them are professionals. And they all speak in that stereotypical Aussie accent that I am always on the lookout for when I've been travelling away from home for an extended period of time. Love that twang! This clip shows that world-class waves are out there at all of our disposal - we only need to put in the effort.
You may personally enjoy this clip for totally different and unique reasons of your own. That's cool. I personally hope this helps to motivate you to do some fun exploring of your own, to find some unridden pit awaiting your enjoyment...
This clip may change all of that for some!
I enjoyed watching this clip for many reasons.
Yes, this is a fantastic quality 'Indoesque' wave - only that it's a righty.
I do love a good explore and a bit of adventure - and that is what this video is all about. These blokes heard a rumour, did their research, waited patiently for the right conditions, and jumped at the opportunity when everything lined up perfectly. These guys totally deserve what they scored for mind.
The most charming part for me though, is the blokes that surf it. They are all regular guys - none of them are professionals. And they all speak in that stereotypical Aussie accent that I am always on the lookout for when I've been travelling away from home for an extended period of time. Love that twang! This clip shows that world-class waves are out there at all of our disposal - we only need to put in the effort.
You may personally enjoy this clip for totally different and unique reasons of your own. That's cool. I personally hope this helps to motivate you to do some fun exploring of your own, to find some unridden pit awaiting your enjoyment...
Wednesday, 9 January 2013
Just south of the mainland...
Australia's biggest island and most southern state, Tasmania, is the butt of many 'Mainlander' jokes. The place however, can spit out some fantastic and uncrowded waves.
Today's clip doesn't necessarily show this seclusion, but it does touch a little bit on some of the variety and class available.
Tasmania: soft or beefy
Today's clip doesn't necessarily show this seclusion, but it does touch a little bit on some of the variety and class available.
Tasmania: soft or beefy
Tuesday, 8 January 2013
Crowd spreaders
It seems like every beach packs out during the summer months. Apart from the sun, warm water, little or no neoprene and ice-cream, summer surfing can really get up my goat! Sure, all people are allowed to enjoy surfing (I've got no intention of stopping them), I just admit I hate crowds...
Or, you could be one of those unlucky buggers who live somewhere where there is only one break or beach to chose from for miles and miles. I also pity your (probable) inability to get a wave all to yourself.
Source: www.surfline.com
It's when you're faced with such bleak circumstances that you need to find yourself a local spot like this!
Options, options, options...
In fact, if I were to paddle out solo at this place, I'd probably be driven crazy with the options available. 'Do I want to surf a left or a right this morning Willy?' I'd say to myself. Then: 'Which left do I want to surf?' I'd ask myself. Followed shortly by a nervous breakdown with wide-eyed giggling and panting...
Or, you could be one of those unlucky buggers who live somewhere where there is only one break or beach to chose from for miles and miles. I also pity your (probable) inability to get a wave all to yourself.
Even with five other buddies, you can still get a wave to yourself! |
It's when you're faced with such bleak circumstances that you need to find yourself a local spot like this!
Options, options, options...
In fact, if I were to paddle out solo at this place, I'd probably be driven crazy with the options available. 'Do I want to surf a left or a right this morning Willy?' I'd say to myself. Then: 'Which left do I want to surf?' I'd ask myself. Followed shortly by a nervous breakdown with wide-eyed giggling and panting...
Monday, 7 January 2013
Being Pipeline
Pipeline, one of modern surfing's most famous waves, may be out of reach to many of us. That doesn't mean we can't appreciate understanding how it works.
Today's link, provided by a long-time supporter of 'Cuttie in your face', delves into the technical aspects of what makes Pipe break at its best.
Isn't it interesting: while it often only takes a few seconds for a wave to break, that breaking wave is the result of a combination of factors, whose unique characteristics make a break as special as this come alive.
Watch, enjoy and learn:
How Pipe works
Today's link, provided by a long-time supporter of 'Cuttie in your face', delves into the technical aspects of what makes Pipe break at its best.
Isn't it interesting: while it often only takes a few seconds for a wave to break, that breaking wave is the result of a combination of factors, whose unique characteristics make a break as special as this come alive.
Watch, enjoy and learn:
How Pipe works
Sunday, 6 January 2013
And the winner is...
December 2012 saw the first competition held on 'Cuttie in your face'. The prize was three blocks of surfboard wax and a wax comb.
The competition required entrants to complete the following sentence: 'You really know you're a surfer when...'
The winner of this competition is Josh of Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia. Josh's entry was:
'You really know you're a surfer when, even though you are still pissed and have only had three hours sleep, you drag your sorry carcass into a car full of mates and drive up the coast and for three surfs.'
Congrats Josh, so true! Your prize pack will be sent to you shortly.
A special mention goes to Adam for the following entry that came close to winning:
'You really know you're a surfer when 'Aqua Bog' is your middle name.'
As a point of interest, today's photo, while not of Josh, comes from him and is a photo of his surfing mate from Victoria, Australia.
Source: nutgraphics.com (via Josh)
The competition required entrants to complete the following sentence: 'You really know you're a surfer when...'
The winner of this competition is Josh of Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia. Josh's entry was:
'You really know you're a surfer when, even though you are still pissed and have only had three hours sleep, you drag your sorry carcass into a car full of mates and drive up the coast and for three surfs.'
Congrats Josh, so true! Your prize pack will be sent to you shortly.
A special mention goes to Adam for the following entry that came close to winning:
'You really know you're a surfer when 'Aqua Bog' is your middle name.'
As a point of interest, today's photo, while not of Josh, comes from him and is a photo of his surfing mate from Victoria, Australia.
From the winner, but not of the winner. |
Saturday, 5 January 2013
Leggy review
Just like with my board bag (see yesterday's post under 'Reviews'), I recently needed to buy a new leggy for my new board.
Again, I was only really willing to consider an FCS product. This predisposition was founded on the belief that FCS' quality was second-to-none in the surf industry, and that they were the only business to come close to mirroring the snowboard brand Burton for attention to detail.
FCS
Burton
For the second time in a row, Ocean & Earth impressed me with the progressiveness, quality and innovation of one of their products. This time it was their leash that impressed me...
Ocean & Earth: leashes
Ocean & Earth now offer moulded leashes where the cord is one single piece from swivel to swivel. Not only is this more aesthetically pleasing, but, most importantly, it is said to contribute to making the leash even stronger.
Photo: Willy
You can see how the moulded leash allows the chord to 'swallow' the swivel . In the preceding photo you can also see this model's very thin ankle strap. Ocean & Earth's ankle straps are not normally this thin - it's just that I purchased the 'Comp' version which is meant to be ultra light weight. Since I only intend to use my new board in small waves, I thought an ultra light weight leash would be the best way to go.
Photo: Willy
Photo: Willy
Ocean & Earth have developed the rail saver part of the leggy even further. The fixed/attached string, something I believe they have a patent for, has been around for some time now. What Ocean & Earth have added now, is a little thin and flexible kind of plastic probe that allows you to thread the string through your board's plug much easier. It's a small feature that you will probably use only once or twice, but it's nifty none-the-less.
Regardless of how much I love this product, I must say that I don't like the thin ankle strap on the 'Comp' model. Maybe I'm not being 'compy' enough by saying this. I don't like the strap because even on a one to two foot wave wipe out, when the board's pulling on your leg, it can often be uncomfortable. If the leash is pulling on even a slight angle, the mounting tends to press uncomfortably into your ankle.
Despite this, this leggy is definitely a product I'd recommend!
Again, I was only really willing to consider an FCS product. This predisposition was founded on the belief that FCS' quality was second-to-none in the surf industry, and that they were the only business to come close to mirroring the snowboard brand Burton for attention to detail.
FCS
Burton
For the second time in a row, Ocean & Earth impressed me with the progressiveness, quality and innovation of one of their products. This time it was their leash that impressed me...
Ocean & Earth: leashes
Ocean & Earth now offer moulded leashes where the cord is one single piece from swivel to swivel. Not only is this more aesthetically pleasing, but, most importantly, it is said to contribute to making the leash even stronger.
Light weight means a super thin strap for your ankle. |
You can see how the moulded leash allows the chord to 'swallow' the swivel . In the preceding photo you can also see this model's very thin ankle strap. Ocean & Earth's ankle straps are not normally this thin - it's just that I purchased the 'Comp' version which is meant to be ultra light weight. Since I only intend to use my new board in small waves, I thought an ultra light weight leash would be the best way to go.
The moulded connection between the cord and the swivel is meant to increase strength. |
Behind this neat finish lie a number of features - including a 'locating' extension to help you guide the rope through your plug. |
Ocean & Earth have developed the rail saver part of the leggy even further. The fixed/attached string, something I believe they have a patent for, has been around for some time now. What Ocean & Earth have added now, is a little thin and flexible kind of plastic probe that allows you to thread the string through your board's plug much easier. It's a small feature that you will probably use only once or twice, but it's nifty none-the-less.
Regardless of how much I love this product, I must say that I don't like the thin ankle strap on the 'Comp' model. Maybe I'm not being 'compy' enough by saying this. I don't like the strap because even on a one to two foot wave wipe out, when the board's pulling on your leg, it can often be uncomfortable. If the leash is pulling on even a slight angle, the mounting tends to press uncomfortably into your ankle.
Despite this, this leggy is definitely a product I'd recommend!
Friday, 4 January 2013
Board bag review
When I got my new board last month, I also got a board bag to protect the new baby.
Ordinarily, I would have insisted on getting an FCS bag since I've been a loyal FCS guy a long time now. I personally believe FCS invests in innovation, pays close attention to detail, and it seems as though all products are tailored to the premium end of the market.
I've never had any issues or problems with any of their gear.
FCS
FCS reminds me of a snowboard company called Burton. I discovered Burton when I was working as a snowboard instructor in the US, in the early 2000s, at a resort called Stowe Mountain Resort in the north eastern state of Vermont.
Stowe Mountain Resort
Stowe Mountain Resort satellite photo
Burton was the first brand I ever truly admired and dreamt of modelling. These guys care about everything they put their name to and there is no compromise with quality - ever!
Burton
I haven't snowboarded for a long time now so I've lost touch with where Burton is today. Either way, FCS is the only surf brand that has ever reminded me of them.
Ocean & Earth has been around for quite some time now. When I was a grom I used to have some of their gear. I gradually stopped buying it over time however, since it seemed to me to be at the lower end of the quality spectrum.
How things have changed!
I couldn't buy an FCS board cover for my new board, because the FCS model available was too narrow - hence I had to consider other options. The bloke in the shop recommended I buy the Ocean & Earth one instead. I was reluctant at first, but after looking at the construction quality and features, I was pleasantly surprised.
Ocean & Earth: board covers
The board cover I got, from the 'Global Travel Series' range, is as tough as any bag I've ever had.
Photo: Willy
Photo: Willy
Amongst some of the features, there are zips on the gusset that allow for the bag to be zipped up and compressed nicely for long distance and international travel if required. Or, the gusset can be opened up for when you're using the bag for everyday local trips.
Photo: Willy
I think breathing holes are important for any board cover. Air-flow encourages speedier drying of equipment. This means board wax takes longer to deteriorate, there is less opportunity for leg rope swivel corrosion, and things are much less likely to get smelly. The breathing hole on the Ocean & Earth board cover is big and is placed in the perfect spot to ensure it, nor the board can easily get damaged.
As yet, I cannot see any negatives with the board cover as it is. Maybe with time, some will be exposed. In the mean time, I highly endorse it as a board bag worth considering if you are in the market.
Ordinarily, I would have insisted on getting an FCS bag since I've been a loyal FCS guy a long time now. I personally believe FCS invests in innovation, pays close attention to detail, and it seems as though all products are tailored to the premium end of the market.
I've never had any issues or problems with any of their gear.
FCS
FCS reminds me of a snowboard company called Burton. I discovered Burton when I was working as a snowboard instructor in the US, in the early 2000s, at a resort called Stowe Mountain Resort in the north eastern state of Vermont.
Stowe Mountain Resort
Stowe Mountain Resort satellite photo
Burton was the first brand I ever truly admired and dreamt of modelling. These guys care about everything they put their name to and there is no compromise with quality - ever!
Burton
I haven't snowboarded for a long time now so I've lost touch with where Burton is today. Either way, FCS is the only surf brand that has ever reminded me of them.
Ocean & Earth has been around for quite some time now. When I was a grom I used to have some of their gear. I gradually stopped buying it over time however, since it seemed to me to be at the lower end of the quality spectrum.
How things have changed!
I couldn't buy an FCS board cover for my new board, because the FCS model available was too narrow - hence I had to consider other options. The bloke in the shop recommended I buy the Ocean & Earth one instead. I was reluctant at first, but after looking at the construction quality and features, I was pleasantly surprised.
Ocean & Earth: board covers
The board cover I got, from the 'Global Travel Series' range, is as tough as any bag I've ever had.
Everything looks pretty standard on the surface... |
Zippable gussets make for neat transportation with or without fins. |
Amongst some of the features, there are zips on the gusset that allow for the bag to be zipped up and compressed nicely for long distance and international travel if required. Or, the gusset can be opened up for when you're using the bag for everyday local trips.
Discrete yet generous air vents allow your gear to dry quickly. |
I think breathing holes are important for any board cover. Air-flow encourages speedier drying of equipment. This means board wax takes longer to deteriorate, there is less opportunity for leg rope swivel corrosion, and things are much less likely to get smelly. The breathing hole on the Ocean & Earth board cover is big and is placed in the perfect spot to ensure it, nor the board can easily get damaged.
As yet, I cannot see any negatives with the board cover as it is. Maybe with time, some will be exposed. In the mean time, I highly endorse it as a board bag worth considering if you are in the market.
Thursday, 3 January 2013
USA now number one fan!
'Cuttie in your face' seems to be starting to branch out more internationally!
Last week, for the first time ever, another country had more 'Cuttie in your face' readers than Australia. The US in now number one!
Source: seancoxellphotography.blogspot.com.au
Last week, for the first time ever, another country had more 'Cuttie in your face' readers than Australia. The US in now number one!
A perfect empty (and cold) wave breaks. Meanwhile on crowded beaches elsewhere, surfers scramble for mush... |
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