The weekend just got even better!

Following on from yesterday's post, two days later on Saturday 27 April, the swell had built again.

Again the whole coast greeted me with beautiful, clean swell lines.

Jan Juc beach 'blocked' by a comp.

Photo: Willy

Jan Juc in Victoria, Australia was my first check. Apart from a junior comp making the wave inaccessible to most, I was happy with what I saw.

Jan Juc satellite photo

So I decided to keep looking...

Bells Beach even bigger and better than two days prior.

Photo: Willy

Bells Beach was my next port of call. I thought it was now big enough to thin the crowd - how wrong I was!

Bells Beach satellite photo

I went from happy to cheesed! Personally, I think there's little point sharing epic waves when there are over thirty guys out in the water.

So I decided to keep looking and found a much smaller, but totally empty, reef/beach break. Unfortunately the waves weren't anywhere near as big, but on the positive side, my wave count was much, much, much higher that it would have been anywhere else on that day.

Better late than never...

So, autumn is supposed to be the premier time for swell in Victoria, Australia.

Victoria, Australia satellite photo

So far this year, autumn has generally disappointed - until last week! Last week saw a week's worth of building swell with favourable winds.

Walking from my parked car towards the Bells lookouts.

Photo: Willy

I was lucky enough that Thursday 25 April was a public holiday here. As I do on most days off, I trotted down to the coast. This time I was greeted with beautiful lines pulling into Bells Beach.

Bells in the foreground and Centre Side in the background.

Photo: Willy

The whole coast was pumping! I decided to challenge myself at more than 'decent' Winkipop - a short walk east from Bells.

I bounced off the bottom a few times, but managed to catch some pearlers - including one from all the way on the point to the very end of the wave.

Photo: Willy

Little did I know it, but this was the start of a few lovely days for me. Stay tuned...

Step into a pit

Shipsterns Bluff, on the south coast of Tasmania, Australia, is a wave that polarises surfers. Some feel that it's an awesome wave that's worth all of the hype, while others think it's an overrated wave with a crappy step in the middle of it.

Tasmania, Australia satellite photo

It may sound 'safe' of me, but I probably sit somewhere in the middle: I think it's a spectacular spot where the guys who ride it are very respectable. Having said that, I'd probably say there are 1,000 other breaks I'd rather surf myself.

A couple of days ago, my girlfriend Pam sent me this Shipsterns clip, pointing out one particular keg somewhere in the middle of it. I agree it's a clip (and keg) well worth seeing.

Please enjoy:

Shippys clip

Some waves we just need to let pass by

Not all waves are meant to be caught. At some spots, selectiveness is the key to a fun, and safe, session.

This slab is a good example! While you're enjoying watching this short but very punchy wave, pay attention to the sweet pig-dogging on display.

Slabidy slab slab slab

From retro to modern

After a few consecutive posts packed with old school retro action, I thought it was time to bring things back to the modern day present.

I wouldn't blame readers for suggesting this post is not really surfing - after all, it is a skimboarder towing in.

I'd say hang in there and give the clip some time to impress you.

I must admit, I find this footage fascinating: Seeing how this guy's uniquely shaped board works in such critical waves gets my mind working. You can see how different this guy's style is on the bottom turn alone - it does look like he's struggling a bit. But then, boy oh boy does he get some speed up down the line!

What do you think?

Source: YouTube

Sometimes 'only' wood is enough...

In line with yesterday's retro post, today's post is in much the same spirit.

This clip is about as retro as it can get with these surfers literally surfing planks - apparently very similar to what the early Hawaiians surfed.

Don't be put off though, this clip is very entertaining with high performance and exciting surfing throughout - surprisingly so may I add! And, as I like to always highlight, it looks super fun too!

Planks on fire

Back to the future?

As 'Cuttie in your face' readers may have noticed of late, I'm really enjoying many of the old school footage that is showing up on line.

While many of these new 'old' boards show many clear limitations, they do look like a whole lot of fun to surf. Today's clip of some fun on California, USA's Lower Trestles, is one such example of this.

New old school

(Trestles satellite photo)

Free surfing fun

Not the smoothest surfer I've ever seen, but certainly one who seems to be having a ton of fun:

Free surfing shenanigans

Somewhere in the Pacific

My brother's been living on a remote island in the Pacific for just under a year now. I've cheekily attached a link below to help you to try to find it...

Pacific Ocean satellite photo

Whenever I speak with him, he's always telling me about fun little spots he's surfing with not too many guys out.

When he visited last Easter, he showed me a short clip he took from the boat that took him out to an outer reef that day. As you can see, it's empty, reeling perfection! The proof is in the pudding...

Can't wait to get over there for a bit of this action later this year.

(Sorry: some spots still have to remain secret or semi-secret)

Footage: Gozz

Finally, after a bit of a nudge...

I found the clip at the bottom of today's post on Surfline a few days ago, watched it, thought it was rad, and let it pass by.

Link to Surfline

Luckily the next morning, my girlfriend, without knowing I'd already seen it, emailed me the link again raving how rad this barrel was. I'm glad she did, because this ride is indeed blogworthy!

So here it is. Compliments of Pam's little kick in my bum:

Classic Kirra barrel

Big wave paddling

Big waves, really big waves, are something most of us will never get to experience. I don't even know how many surfers out there even have it on their radar. It's certainly one thing I'd like to get into sometime in my surfing life.

If I allow myself to dream for a bit, the next choice then becomes: To tow or not to tow? Towing would be easier, but I don't know where I'd even start looking for a jet ski and pilot... Plus, as a bit of a purist, I much prefer the idea and romance of paddling in off my own steam.

Then, moving from there, that begs the next question: What does one need in order to be able to paddle into big waves effectively and safely? Remember: big waves move much more quickly than small waves. Is it a big set of arms? Is it 'guts'? Is it balance? Or is it a combination of these and some other characteristics?

That's food for thought. While you're busy masticating that one, enjoy the following big wave clip with some very respectable paddling.

Paddling into something big

My kind of dream wave

I'm not the most accomplished surfer - particularly in the tube. I tend to get really anxious when I'm in there.

And that is probably one of the reasons for my really low barrel count...

So this wave looks really nice to me. I like the idea of pulling into a barrel with a clear shoulder and wide (looking) opening. Anything with too much of a wall and the nerves start again!

Source: serbagunamarine.com

Play time in paradise

'Paradise' means different things to different people. To some it means tropical islands, while to others it means cascading waterfalls. I'm sure there are hundreds of other definitions out there...

I for one, seriously believe paradise can also be found on the edge of a desert.

Here's one example of a barren land that I feel is nothing but spectacular to look at.

Source: www.surfdesnations.com

Snapshot of a legend

Regardless of whether or not you're into the comp scene, I think Kelly Slater deserves our respect as a surfer.

This little clip popped up on my radar on YouTube a little while ago. It's dated, but I still think it shows how much this guy can rip.

If you've got a spare two to three minutes, I highly recommend you press 'play'.

Footage: YouTube

Three shades of pit

It's interesting to note that this bloke, while travelling the world and getting shacked, seems to only be able to get slotted on his forehand.

Maybe I'm reading into this video too much, but I'd like to see him go left too! Or maybe destinations like Angola and Ireland only have right-handers? Doubtful...

Either way, he knows how to pull in under the curtain.

Pit fest

Gangbusters and not-so-gangbusters weekend

The last weekend was a weekend of swell for us on the Victorian coast.

Victoria, Australia satellite photo

This photo was taken after my surf on Saturday. Behind the furthest point you can see Bells Beach breaking. The point has Winkipop going off, and the foreground sees a crowded Boobs and Boobs Left working pretty nicely.

Photo: Willy

Sunday's surf started off well for me as I paddled out to Boobs just before the sun came up. There was only four of us out. I seemed to have found the sweet spot to wait for the waves because I was sneakily catching everything! In less than an hour I'd already had a decent number of waves under my belt. At around the hour mark, I paddled into what was looking like a really wally one, and pulled into the close out.

The rumble was nothing special but my heel did clip my fin.

When I came up, with all the salt water and stuff bubbling around, I couldn't see any damage - so I surfed on.

Photo: Willy

It was only after coming in, and having a bit of a prod, that I realised the gash was deeper than first thought.

A quick trip to Geelong hospital confirmed it needed three stitches.

Geelong Hospital satellite photo (with Torquay and the surf coast at the bottom)

So now I have to walk with a bit of a limp and be out of the water for the next ten days. The things we do for the joys of surfing...

Photo: Willy

Monday munchings and perfect pits

Before I lift your aspirations with the clip below, I thought I'd try to dampen your confidence with this image of, what I'm sure will be, a bit of a munching.

Source: www.surfline.com

Now that you may be feeling a little deflated, click on the link/clip below to get a bit of fire back in ya belly!

Yummy crystal lips

Black sand badness

Check out this clip of some local talent ripping up a really rippable wave somewhere out there.

One of the turns, somewhere mid-clip, is spectacular. Look out for it.

Footage: YouTube

Central American jewel

I don't know what the crowds are like at this spot, but the location relative to some of the visible accommodation options is ideal!

The idea of rolling out of bed onto a peeling face is quite attractive.

Source: www.surfline.com

Legend has it, these waves can be found in the Caribbean

Sorry gang: Time is short today, so I can only throw up this little link to some Caribbean fun.

Tropical shade

(Again) Perfect Pipe

The source of many dreamy shots is Pipeline.

Here is another for you to sleep peacefully to:

Source: www.surfline.com

Sunny smiles

I feel when we go surfing, we go chasing smiles.

And it seems as though every clip I post on Central America makes me and many other 'Cuttie in your face' readers smile too...

I expect this one will be no exception - this bloke is having a stack of fun:

Central American play time

Something relateable

I'm assuming it's fair to suggest many of the readers of this blog are your average weekend warrior. Weekend warriors usually dont' have time to travel to exotic spots like Fiji, Hawaii or The Mentawais.

Fiji satellite photo

Hawaii satellite photo

Mentawai Islands satellite photo

For us weekend warriors, the bread and butter waves we usually get to surf are a little more humble. Sometimes all it takes are offshore winds to get us frothing!

Today's clip is something I think many of us could relate to. It's small, but it gets my juices flowing.

North Cali squirt

Nice nippiness

With surfing becoming increasingly popular and mainstream, and uncrowded waves being increasingly hard to find, I genuinely think new frontiers are where it's at if you want the soul experience.

And by new frontiers, I'm thinking of really out there stuff like this: going where it's really cold, really remote and really unwelcoming.

I'd take 'cool' weather and water for empty waves such as this any time.

Source: surfingintexas.com/gulf-surfing-alaska-style/

Tres thick

Glance quickly at this photo and you may see a fun wave...

... look closer and I'm sure you'll see a beast!

I find this thing more and more impressive the longer I look at it. Would love to know what happened further down the line.

Source: www.surfermag.com

A happy Easter surf trip

A surfing friend of mine went away on a bit of a family holiday over the recent Easter weekend. He headed south east from Adelaide, Australia towards the south west coast of the state of Victoria.

Victoria, Australia satellite photo

Long points = fun.

Photo: Mischa

As you can see, he scored a bit of swell and some firing surf spots!

Speed turn.

Photo: Mischa


From all accounts, all of his surfs were fun, and the conditions on three of the four days were good.

Something fun for the kiddies learning to surf out there.

Photo: Mischa

Examples of some South Australian treasures

This blog is one I'd recommend you keep an eye on - even if you don't live or surf in South Australia (SA), Australia.

South Australia satellite photo

SA's got a ton of semi-secret and secret spots. All you need to do is be prepared to hop in a car and spend hours on the road exploring. The effort is often worth it, with empty and picturesque waves on offer.

Beware, there is plenty of ocean power to be found.

I hope you enjoy browsing this blog - there are heaps of hidden interesting bits to be found...

Surfing in South Australia

Aquatic steam train

Barrels can be short little squirts, foamy little adventures, tight little kegs or this: a fast and furious aquatic steam train that goes at only one speed - full clip!

Source: rapscallion.wordpress.com/category/surfing/

Cold, calm and collected

These tubes come courtesy of some pretty cold parts of the US.

Despite probably shaking like leafs from cold, these surfers manage to pull into and out of some pretty hectic little barrels.

Chilly fun

Long and (almost) empty

I've had some feedback that goofies have been under-catered in 'Cuttie in your face'.

So, this one's for you!

(There. That'll keep 'em quiet for the next few months.)

Source: www.waterwaystravel.com