Well I wish I was back in a rhythm already, but alas I'm not.
The good news for 'Cuttie in your face' readers is that I expect regular posts to start coming within the next day or so. Please bear with me as I settle into my new life in the US - I'm almost there...
While you wait, why not paddle into a wave like this to pass the time?
I apologise for not posting over the last few days. I've recently moved to the US and settling in is proving to be much more work than expected.
I'm going to do my best to continue posting regularly, but my daily posts will probably only be photos until I get my feet planted firmly on the ground.
Amongst their scores was this semi secret spot. They were lucky enough to share it with a few of their aquatic friends.
Photo: Josh
They also scored a spot called Chinamans. Chinamans, a spot that I've never surfed this good, is described by one of the boys as 'the jewel of the Yorke Peninsula'.
It's no doubt a great quality wave. But not my favourite on the coast. Everybody has their own unique tastes I guess...
Photo: Troy
Normally this spot is pretty crowded when it fires. This time however the boys got lucky. The local boys who normally dominate this lineup were away at a wedding and left the place empty.
Photo: Troy
It's a shame the 'locals' of the world aren't away at weddings more often!
Before leaving, one of my mates wanted to say goodbye by going on a weekend camping trip with me. Our first day away presented onshore conditions. On the next day we awoke to this. Beautiful, glassy conditions with only six to eight guys out.
While I didn't surf that great, needless to say I had a fantastic time.
If reading ain't your game, then check out the fin's benefits in the clip below:
Footage: YouTube
The rules of the competition are as follows:
- Entries from around the globe are welcome (and encouraged!)
- This competition is searching for the photo that best embodies the fun, natural and soulful aspects of surfing
- All photos must be taken by the entrant and must not have been published anywhere else previously
- There are unlimited entries per person
- All entries must be submitted by email only to: l.gorajek@gmail.com
- I have permission to publish all entries in 'Cuttie in you face' (only
the first name of the entrant will be published alongside)
- Entries close at midday on Thursday 1 August 2013, Los Angeles, USA time
- All entries must contain the name and complete postage
details of the entrant (just in case you win the grand prize)
- I will judge the best entry and my decision will be final.
I'm curious to know how this surfer got themselves into this position.
The wave has only just broken but he's sitting high in the pocket. Did he catch the wave early and deep and follow it up with a tight bottom turn? Or did he tow in? What do you think?
I'm tempted to guess he was towed...
Either way, surfing the high line in critical sections is one of the funnest things you can do on a wave me thinks.
Interestingly, this photo features my brother and our friend Stuart paddling out.
The story goes that the boys had a good crack surfing this spot with varying luck. Due to the obviously challenging takeoff, they had to let the big ones (like this one) pass by unridden (but appreciated).
Keep your entries coming guys - there are less than two weeks before the competition closes.
I think Morocco would be a great place to go on a surfing surfari - not only for the waves, but also for the stunning landscapes and unique cultural experience...
I guess this is one of the reasons I am grateful surfing is a huge part of my life. Surfing has not only given me many special memories, but surfing has also taken me all over the world and showed me many wonderful places.
There are loads of great quality right and points scattered all along that place. So, in the name of memories, I went looking for Baja clips on line.
I found this one and just had to post it. The quality of the footage is not that great, but it is of a spot I spent about five days at. I'm not giving its location away but, needless to say, great memories...
Just a friendly reminder of the competition that's currently running. The best entry of an original photo that best represents the fun, natural and soulful sides of surfing will win an FSC VS Knubster.
The technical details of the fin are on this link:
The rules of the competition are as follows:
- Entries from around the globe are welcome (and encouraged!)
- This competition is searching for the photo that best embodies the fun, natural and soulful aspects of surfing
- All photos must be taken by the entrant and must not have been published anywhere else previously
- There are unlimited entries per person
- All entries must be submitted by email only to: l.gorajek@gmail.com
- I have permission to publish all entries in 'Cuttie in you face' (only
the first name of the entrant will be published alongside)
- Entries close at midday on Thursday 1 August 2013, Los Angeles, USA time
-
To be eligible, all entries must contain the name and complete postage
details of the entrant (just in case you win the grand prize)
- I will judge the best entry and my decision will be final.
I'm not too familiar with how the FSC VS Knubster works myself as I'm still new to riding with it.
If you want some expert insight into it, check out the vid below:
Footage: YouTube
Get into it guys! I look forward to receiving your entries...
Including this photo to remind you why we surf - just in case you need reminding.
I'm hoping this spot was surfed at dawn rather than dusk.
I can't imagine anything worse than having a spot like this to myself at dusk, and racing to get as many waves as possible before the sky goes black. To me, with my disposition, that is the definition of anxiety!
Longboarding is just about where it all started for us surfers. Nowadays, that form of our sport is often regarded as slow, relaxed and only reserved for oldies wanting to surf small waves.
This clip helps to dispel that myth. While the waves this guy surfs aren't huge, what he is able to achieve on his rides is quite impressive. He has a great variety of moves and seems to be having a ton of fun.
Boards of the good old days certainly couldn't do what boards of today can (on the face of a wave or above it).
Having said that, I'd have to say they did look magnificent on the water. I think this yellow stick looks amazing cutting through the face of this wave...
Amongst the things we did were visits to G-Land, and hanging and surfing around Bali, Denpasar and the Bukit Peninsula. These were two great trips!
One of the things we also did was two great boat trips east of Bali. One of the places were were lucky enough to stop at was Desert Point on the island of Lombok
I guess I'm just curious as to whether or not a world-class surfer could have and would have taken this wave heaps deeper and shot for the back door pit...
