Imagine then, thinking for a split second that you must have it all to yourself, only to spot a handful of other surfers already on it. Spewing!
Still, with a reeling point like this, you'd hope there would be enough waves to go around...
Saturday 29 December 2012
Imagine...
Imagine trekking through a jungle for a number of hours, to finally pop out and find this little beauty. Cheering!
Imagine then, thinking for a split second that you must have it all to yourself, only to spot a handful of other surfers already on it. Spewing!
Still, with a reeling point like this, you'd hope there would be enough waves to go around...
Source: www.swellnet.com.au
Imagine then, thinking for a split second that you must have it all to yourself, only to spot a handful of other surfers already on it. Spewing!
Still, with a reeling point like this, you'd hope there would be enough waves to go around...
Friday 28 December 2012
Three days until entries close!
There are only three days left for you to get your entries into the first ever competition from 'Cuttie in your face'!
Check out all the details by clicking on the orange tab labelled 'Competitions' and reading away...
The best entry gets wax and a comb - jackpot!
Source: surfmusic.blogsome.com
Check out all the details by clicking on the orange tab labelled 'Competitions' and reading away...
The best entry gets wax and a comb - jackpot!
Thursday 27 December 2012
Summer colours
As summer starts hitting the southern hemisphere, and 'Northerners' start getting into the depths of winter, I thought I'd post a photo celebrating summer - a time when most of us like to go for a squirt.
I think little makes a wave look more summery than a turquoise cylinder like this one.
Hope this gets you chucking on some boardies or a bikini!
Source: www.surfingnetwork.com
I think little makes a wave look more summery than a turquoise cylinder like this one.
Hope this gets you chucking on some boardies or a bikini!
Wednesday 26 December 2012
Empty slab somewhere
How's this for a lucky surfer?! In the bottom of the shot you can see a red 4WD having a little squizzy at the surf.
I hope they suited up after this wave passed, because it would be rude to pass this empty opportunity up!
I wonder if all the fishermen/women on the jetty realise what they're missing out on?!
Hoot!
Source: www.surfresortfinder.com
I hope they suited up after this wave passed, because it would be rude to pass this empty opportunity up!
I wonder if all the fishermen/women on the jetty realise what they're missing out on?!
Hoot!
Tuesday 25 December 2012
Note to self
So, I tried to squeeze in a cheeky Christmas morning surf today to avoid the summer crowds. I scored small, fun and clean 'Triggs'. Triggs is on the stretch of coast on the outskirts of Adelaide, South Australia known as 'The Mid'.
Mid Coast satellite photo
At most, I shared the waves with two other guys.
I had been enjoying my surf on my new flat summer board - 'The Mullet'. It was going a treat! The Mullet was picking up waves super easy and scooting along their tiny faces nicely.
When the time came, it was time to call it a sesh and head back home. Calling it must have jinxed me. As I flicked off my last wave, trying to plop off my board into the water, my knee caught the tail and damaged it a bit.
The photo below shows the nice bit work my knee did.
Photo: Willy
The lesson for me out of all of this, one that I should have learnt many years ago, is to plop into the water well away from my board in future. Otherwise, I can expect damage like this to continue to be commonplace...
Mid Coast satellite photo
At most, I shared the waves with two other guys.
I had been enjoying my surf on my new flat summer board - 'The Mullet'. It was going a treat! The Mullet was picking up waves super easy and scooting along their tiny faces nicely.
When the time came, it was time to call it a sesh and head back home. Calling it must have jinxed me. As I flicked off my last wave, trying to plop off my board into the water, my knee caught the tail and damaged it a bit.
The photo below shows the nice bit work my knee did.
 |
| My baby is now tarnished. |
The lesson for me out of all of this, one that I should have learnt many years ago, is to plop into the water well away from my board in future. Otherwise, I can expect damage like this to continue to be commonplace...
Monday 24 December 2012
Festive season wishes
If you're Christian: Merry Christmas! If you're Jewish, Muslim, Hindu or any other religion: Happy Tuesday!
Whatever your persuasion, I hope you receive an empty wave, just like this one, all to yourself on this day. If you don't, I hope any presents you have received make up for your loss...
How lucky is this person?! Total playtime and nobody's out!
Source: www.surfline.com
Additional artwork: www.surfline.com
Whatever your persuasion, I hope you receive an empty wave, just like this one, all to yourself on this day. If you don't, I hope any presents you have received make up for your loss...
How lucky is this person?! Total playtime and nobody's out!
Additional artwork: www.surfline.com
Sunday 23 December 2012
Short flick - big impact
This little link to YouTube has been sitting in my email inbox for quite some time now. It has come to my attention thanks to my mate The Earl.
There is plenty of good stuff in this clip to rave about. My favourite part though, is the heart shown by the chap who decides to quit the world tour to surf and meet the people behind the locations he visits. This guy comes across as a genuine bloke who actually cares about the people around him.
I feel many of us are often guilty of simply walking past such enriching opportunities at times in life - absolutely me included.
Footage: YouTube
There is plenty of good stuff in this clip to rave about. My favourite part though, is the heart shown by the chap who decides to quit the world tour to surf and meet the people behind the locations he visits. This guy comes across as a genuine bloke who actually cares about the people around him.
I feel many of us are often guilty of simply walking past such enriching opportunities at times in life - absolutely me included.
Saturday 22 December 2012
Poetic waves
In the split second it takes for a wave to break, a lot of beauty passes unnoticed to the human eye.
This clip I found on Vimeo allows us to appreciate the detail we ordinarily miss, when caught up in the moment:
Vimeo: Poetic waves
I always found the ocean and its waves beautiful. After seeing this clip, I appreciate the ocean and its waves are even more spectacular than I originally thought. I hope you find this slow-mo footage just as impressive to watch...
This clip I found on Vimeo allows us to appreciate the detail we ordinarily miss, when caught up in the moment:
Vimeo: Poetic waves
I always found the ocean and its waves beautiful. After seeing this clip, I appreciate the ocean and its waves are even more spectacular than I originally thought. I hope you find this slow-mo footage just as impressive to watch...
Friday 21 December 2012
Surfing with mates
There are many different key ingredients for a fun surf: Swell, winds and tides are a start. I would also add 'company'.
I love surfing. And the only thing better than catching a sweet wave, is being able to share it with someone you care for (on any level).
Cruising the web I found this. The waves are about half a foot, but there is some shape and they are clean. What caught my attention this time, and made me want to blog about it, was having the feeling of wanting to substitute myself and a surfing friend with both of these two guys. For me, satisfaction comes from surfing in beautiful locations, in relaxing conditions with friends. I'm guessing these guys had a fun little sesh together - and I would have too.
Source: http://www.australiassouthwest.com
I love surfing. And the only thing better than catching a sweet wave, is being able to share it with someone you care for (on any level).
Cruising the web I found this. The waves are about half a foot, but there is some shape and they are clean. What caught my attention this time, and made me want to blog about it, was having the feeling of wanting to substitute myself and a surfing friend with both of these two guys. For me, satisfaction comes from surfing in beautiful locations, in relaxing conditions with friends. I'm guessing these guys had a fun little sesh together - and I would have too.
 |
| You don't always need great waves when you're surfing alone with buddies. |
Thursday 20 December 2012
Competition update
Competition entries are now starting to roll in - and we have a new leader!
Some of the entries that haven't made the top spot so far are:
- 'You really know you're a surfer when you can drive and check waves simultaneously'
- 'You really know you're a surfer when you stop getting thrown from the top of the lip and free fall on every wave.'
Source: www.surfline.com
Keep the entries coming peeps! You've got until the new year to get them in.
Some of the entries that haven't made the top spot so far are:
- 'You really know you're a surfer when you can drive and check waves simultaneously'
- 'You really know you're a surfer when you stop getting thrown from the top of the lip and free fall on every wave.'
Keep the entries coming peeps! You've got until the new year to get them in.
Wednesday 19 December 2012
Love not war
My friend Michael forwarded me this little cartoon a number of weeks ago.
Even though I'm a peace-loving guy who is passionate about the soul side of surfing, I can't help but chuckle at this. I guess it's funny because it's (unfortunately) true.
Source: www.swellnet.com.au
I find it hard to understand attitudes like these. Unfortunately they are common and can be found everywhere - particularly in sport. Many skiers don't like snowboarders - and vice versa. Many skateboarders don't like rollerbladers - and vice versa. And the one I'm sure many of us are exposed to: many surfers don't like bodyboarders (just to name one sub-group) - and vice versa.
I guess the question I want to ask is 'why'? I've thought about this question quite a lot over the years and have spoken to a number of people about it. Nobody has yet given me a single justification as to why this superficial dislike is okay.
I'd be really interested to receive comments from anybody who does support this attitude. I'm keen to learn about this perspective. Maybe I'm missing something?
Until I change my mind however, I'm going to continue believing that we should all just chill and share the waves - no matter what craft we find ourselves on...
Even though I'm a peace-loving guy who is passionate about the soul side of surfing, I can't help but chuckle at this. I guess it's funny because it's (unfortunately) true.
 |
| Surfing is meant to bring out the best in us. Unfortunately this isn't always the case. |
I find it hard to understand attitudes like these. Unfortunately they are common and can be found everywhere - particularly in sport. Many skiers don't like snowboarders - and vice versa. Many skateboarders don't like rollerbladers - and vice versa. And the one I'm sure many of us are exposed to: many surfers don't like bodyboarders (just to name one sub-group) - and vice versa.
I guess the question I want to ask is 'why'? I've thought about this question quite a lot over the years and have spoken to a number of people about it. Nobody has yet given me a single justification as to why this superficial dislike is okay.
I'd be really interested to receive comments from anybody who does support this attitude. I'm keen to learn about this perspective. Maybe I'm missing something?
Until I change my mind however, I'm going to continue believing that we should all just chill and share the waves - no matter what craft we find ourselves on...
Tuesday 18 December 2012
Magic Mex
Those who know me, know that Mexico has a special place in my heart. I find the landscapes, animals, people, food and weather all extremely attractive.
Mexico satellite image
Nothing however, is more attractive than warm, perfect Mexican waves.
While Mexico has many famous beaches, it also has a number of really famous points!
This little clip showcases some beauties firing off their rocker!
Footage: YouTube
I wonder if, following this clip, I should have also included a link to help you book plane tickets over there?
Mexico satellite image
Nothing however, is more attractive than warm, perfect Mexican waves.
While Mexico has many famous beaches, it also has a number of really famous points!
This little clip showcases some beauties firing off their rocker!
I wonder if, following this clip, I should have also included a link to help you book plane tickets over there?
Monday 17 December 2012
Blue bliss
Tonight's post is short and sweet.
It's a photo I found on line.
This photo seems to have been taken on a day where there surf looks peaceful... fun but peaceful. The shimmer on the glassy water, the seeming silence and the cloudless sky create an air of tranquillity.
For me it's the kind of session I'd love to share with my mates...
Source: www.clarklittlephotography.com
It's a photo I found on line.
This photo seems to have been taken on a day where there surf looks peaceful... fun but peaceful. The shimmer on the glassy water, the seeming silence and the cloudless sky create an air of tranquillity.
For me it's the kind of session I'd love to share with my mates...
Sunday 16 December 2012
The story behind the name
Many people ask me why I've chosen 'Cuttie in your face' to be the name of this blog.
Unfortunately, the story isn't thaaat exciting...
Well before this blog started, I had (and still have) an email list where I distributed surfing photos amongst my internationally-dispersed surfing friends. Slowly, over time, I started to sign my emails off by writing 'Cuttie in your face'. This had replaced 'Chow', 'Regards' or 'Cheers' - just to name a few. I liked this sign-off so much that I've taken it with me to this blog, and it's now become the name.
But what does 'Cuttie in your face' actually mean?
Source: www.swellnet.com.au
As far as I can see, to do a cuttie in someone's face can be interpreted in three ways:
1.
It is a turn on a wave, made out of necessity (but coincidentally in front of another surfer), to get back into the pocket. In this case the 'victim' is simply an innocent bystander who gets sprayed with water .
2.
It is a turn on a wave right in front of a surfer paddling out to the lineup. This turn is thinly veiled aggression, and is aimed at intentionally spraying the 'victim' with a face full of water. I view this is an assertion of some sort of dominance.
3.
It is a playful act whereby the surfer performs a turn on the wave right in front of their friend who's paddling out. This is a friendly gesture exploiting the luxury of friendship.
My blog, 'Cuttie in your face', is all about fun. Hence, 'Cuttie in your face' is in reference to the playful cutback. So, next time you're out surfing with friends, be sure to smile as you throw that bucket on their shnoz!
Unfortunately, the story isn't thaaat exciting...
Well before this blog started, I had (and still have) an email list where I distributed surfing photos amongst my internationally-dispersed surfing friends. Slowly, over time, I started to sign my emails off by writing 'Cuttie in your face'. This had replaced 'Chow', 'Regards' or 'Cheers' - just to name a few. I liked this sign-off so much that I've taken it with me to this blog, and it's now become the name.
But what does 'Cuttie in your face' actually mean?
 |
| Summer lovin' |
As far as I can see, to do a cuttie in someone's face can be interpreted in three ways:
1.
It is a turn on a wave, made out of necessity (but coincidentally in front of another surfer), to get back into the pocket. In this case the 'victim' is simply an innocent bystander who gets sprayed with water .
2.
It is a turn on a wave right in front of a surfer paddling out to the lineup. This turn is thinly veiled aggression, and is aimed at intentionally spraying the 'victim' with a face full of water. I view this is an assertion of some sort of dominance.
3.
It is a playful act whereby the surfer performs a turn on the wave right in front of their friend who's paddling out. This is a friendly gesture exploiting the luxury of friendship.
My blog, 'Cuttie in your face', is all about fun. Hence, 'Cuttie in your face' is in reference to the playful cutback. So, next time you're out surfing with friends, be sure to smile as you throw that bucket on their shnoz!
Saturday 15 December 2012
Dane on film
Dane Reynolds is a surfer I've only really leaned of in the last year or so. Ever since that moment, he seems to have started popping up in a lot of footage I see on line.
The bloke certainly knows how to surf and, for mind, have fun. I think there is a lot to admire about a guy who quits the pro tour to give himself the opportunity to freesurf more often.
So, for your enjoyment, I'm posting a vid-length clip of Dane. He's having some freesurfing fun he's made the time to have...
The bloke certainly knows how to surf and, for mind, have fun. I think there is a lot to admire about a guy who quits the pro tour to give himself the opportunity to freesurf more often.
So, for your enjoyment, I'm posting a vid-length clip of Dane. He's having some freesurfing fun he's made the time to have...
Thursday 13 December 2012
Dump!
I've been browsing on line again lately, and in the process have collected these little gems to share with you.
The first one is of a local spot of mine: the world famous Bells Beach. And firing off the dial!
Bells Beach satellite photo
Source: www.tracksmag.com
Source: www.tracksmag.com
Source: www.tracksmag.com
Source: www.swellnet.com.au
The first one is of a local spot of mine: the world famous Bells Beach. And firing off the dial!
Bells Beach satellite photo
 |
| Three little soldiers pass by. |
 |
| 'You get this one buddy, the ninth one in this set is lining up super sweet!' |
 |
| An empty playground in paradise. |
 |
| The brave get rewarded. |
Wednesday 12 December 2012
Finally! Someone in commercial television who understands surfing!
Surfing has become such a cheesy cliche in modern pop culture.
Because of surfing's free and easy lifestyle image, the sport has been bastardised everywhere. Nowhere is this more obvious than in commercial TV advertising. The biggest offenders would have to be car companies. These guys always seem to have a board strapped to the roof of their latest Gen X and Gen Y pitch.
Source: www.themotorreport.com.au
Source: www.suzukiqld.com.au
The worst part for me is that the producers of these TV commercials obviously don't have the foggiest idea about surfing. How often do we see a brand-spanking SUV parked on a 'sexy' angle at the beach? How often does a handsome young couple (with wind wafting through their freshly coiffed hair) accompany it, posing with surfboards under arm? How often is this young couple checking out totally flat conditions? The answer to all three questions is 'all the time'!
It is for this reason that I'm totally and refreshingly in love with Aldi's charming new Christmas commercial. Not only is it clever and full of character, but it also really appeals to the surfer in me. The person who produced this advertisement actually knows what surfing is about! The result is a commercial with a bit of substance that stands out amongst the clutter.
Check it out. I'd be interested to know what you think...
Footage: YouTube
No matter how many times I see it, this advertisement always puts a smile on my face.
And if it takes barrel-riding Santas to positively influence commercial TV, I'm all for it.
Because of surfing's free and easy lifestyle image, the sport has been bastardised everywhere. Nowhere is this more obvious than in commercial TV advertising. The biggest offenders would have to be car companies. These guys always seem to have a board strapped to the roof of their latest Gen X and Gen Y pitch.
 |
| Typical commercial cheese. |
 |
| Where's the swell for that thruster? |
The worst part for me is that the producers of these TV commercials obviously don't have the foggiest idea about surfing. How often do we see a brand-spanking SUV parked on a 'sexy' angle at the beach? How often does a handsome young couple (with wind wafting through their freshly coiffed hair) accompany it, posing with surfboards under arm? How often is this young couple checking out totally flat conditions? The answer to all three questions is 'all the time'!
It is for this reason that I'm totally and refreshingly in love with Aldi's charming new Christmas commercial. Not only is it clever and full of character, but it also really appeals to the surfer in me. The person who produced this advertisement actually knows what surfing is about! The result is a commercial with a bit of substance that stands out amongst the clutter.
Check it out. I'd be interested to know what you think...
No matter how many times I see it, this advertisement always puts a smile on my face.
And if it takes barrel-riding Santas to positively influence commercial TV, I'm all for it.
Tuesday 11 December 2012
Reef
Source: wetsuitcentre.co.uk
A number of days ago, I posted an article on the decline of Quiksilver, in my mind, as a surf brand in the true sense of the word.
For myself, and only personally speaking, a brand that I have grown closer to as a surfer is the Brazilian surf brand 'Reef'.
Reef
Reef: famous for shoes, boardies and nice bums.
 |
| These are shoes... |
 |
| These are boardies... |
 |
| These are some girls' bums... |
 |
| And this is a guy's bum. (Yes, I am straight - I just believe in sexual equality) |
I can't say that Reef is 100% surfing, as I know the business also has a presence in skating. I guess what appeals to me about Reef, is that they seem to be much less of a corporate machine than many other larger surf brands. I'm prepared to admit this may only be a perception. Either way, the company still seems to have it's roots genuinely in surfing. While their gear seems to be of a high quality, I wouldn't call their range outside of footwear, boardies and t-shirts 'comprehensive'.
Still, one of my favourite surf brands for mind...
Monday 10 December 2012
Swellnet
'Swellnet' is one of three sites I regularly use to check, and cross-check surf forecasts, before I head down for a wave.
Swellnet
Swellnet only provides surf forecast information for Australia. Therefore, this review may be of limited use to the international readers of 'Cuttie in your face'.
I don't necessarily feel that Swellnet's the best forecasting site out there - mainly due to the very limited detail it provides. I do however like to use Swellnet as a quick reference summary of the upcoming week's outlook.
Swellnet only really provides am and pm forecasts - instead of the hourly or three-hourly forecasts some other sites provide. One of the best things about Swellnet however, is that it provides relatively up-to-date photos of the prevailing conditions. This allows surfers to better interpret the forecast data, and in turn make better judgements. For those surfers that are not particularly skilled at interpreting surf forecast data, Swellnet also provides recommendations on what the best days and times for surfing will be over the coming week.
In summary, I'd only really recommend Swellnet to the beginner surfer, or the surfer with only 30 seconds to spare to check the upcoming week's outlook. If you're more experienced, or have more time up your sleeve, I'd recommend checking the conditions/predictions of another site.
On the side, Swellnet's also good for a picture, story and (another) blog. I'd recommend checking it out for all of this other additional value the site provides.
Here's an example of a sweet photo Swellnet had up today:
Source: www.swellnet.com.au
Swellnet
Swellnet only provides surf forecast information for Australia. Therefore, this review may be of limited use to the international readers of 'Cuttie in your face'.
I don't necessarily feel that Swellnet's the best forecasting site out there - mainly due to the very limited detail it provides. I do however like to use Swellnet as a quick reference summary of the upcoming week's outlook.
Swellnet only really provides am and pm forecasts - instead of the hourly or three-hourly forecasts some other sites provide. One of the best things about Swellnet however, is that it provides relatively up-to-date photos of the prevailing conditions. This allows surfers to better interpret the forecast data, and in turn make better judgements. For those surfers that are not particularly skilled at interpreting surf forecast data, Swellnet also provides recommendations on what the best days and times for surfing will be over the coming week.
In summary, I'd only really recommend Swellnet to the beginner surfer, or the surfer with only 30 seconds to spare to check the upcoming week's outlook. If you're more experienced, or have more time up your sleeve, I'd recommend checking the conditions/predictions of another site.
On the side, Swellnet's also good for a picture, story and (another) blog. I'd recommend checking it out for all of this other additional value the site provides.
Here's an example of a sweet photo Swellnet had up today:
Sunday 9 December 2012
Competition update
Just a friendly reminder that entries for my competition close at midday on Tuesday 1 January 2013, Melbourne, Australia time.
Entry is easy. All you need to do is complete this sentence: 'You really know you're a surfer when...'
Source: www.surfline.com
The prize for the best entry is three blocks of cold water wax and a versatile wax comb.
I'm not going to reveal the leading entry at this stage, but here are two examples of some that almost held the top spot:
- 'You really know you're a surfer when you feel sorry for those that aren't'
- 'You really know you're a surfer when you get excited over the smell of fresh neoprene'
Both of these are pretty clever. If you think you can do better, please submit your entry to me at: l.gorajek@gmail.com
Photo: Willy
Entry is easy. All you need to do is complete this sentence: 'You really know you're a surfer when...'
The prize for the best entry is three blocks of cold water wax and a versatile wax comb.
I'm not going to reveal the leading entry at this stage, but here are two examples of some that almost held the top spot:
- 'You really know you're a surfer when you feel sorry for those that aren't'
- 'You really know you're a surfer when you get excited over the smell of fresh neoprene'
Both of these are pretty clever. If you think you can do better, please submit your entry to me at: l.gorajek@gmail.com
 |
| What surfer doesn't need some of this good stuff? |
Saturday 8 December 2012
A famous left with commentary from a famous right
Just over a week ago, I posted a clip of a soon-to-be very famous left in Africa.
After trawling through YouTube a bit, I stumbled upon this juicy little piece of the same spot. The commentary is lifted straight out of Bruce Browns seminal surf movie: The Endless Summer.
The Endless Summer by Bruce Brown
I guess it's reasonable to expect that every surfer has their own definition of what makes a 'perfect' wave. It's highly probably that all of these definitions will differ - at least slightly. If I use myself as an example, my favourite waves are not necessarily the best surf spots I've been lucky enough to surf. My favourite waves for example, are usually in places where I also have some sort of connection and history with the area and people.
Despite these differences existing, which is a good thing, I still think most of us would love an opportunity to head over and surf this spot - even if for only one day.
Please sit back and enjoy more footage of this perfect, thick and fun looking wave...
Footage: YouTube
After trawling through YouTube a bit, I stumbled upon this juicy little piece of the same spot. The commentary is lifted straight out of Bruce Browns seminal surf movie: The Endless Summer.
The Endless Summer by Bruce Brown
I guess it's reasonable to expect that every surfer has their own definition of what makes a 'perfect' wave. It's highly probably that all of these definitions will differ - at least slightly. If I use myself as an example, my favourite waves are not necessarily the best surf spots I've been lucky enough to surf. My favourite waves for example, are usually in places where I also have some sort of connection and history with the area and people.
Despite these differences existing, which is a good thing, I still think most of us would love an opportunity to head over and surf this spot - even if for only one day.
Please sit back and enjoy more footage of this perfect, thick and fun looking wave...
Friday 7 December 2012
Choices
I guess the question to be asked is whether you'd choose to paddle this wave, tow in, or simply roll over in bed, sleep in and wait for the swell to drop...
Thursday 6 December 2012
Not so garbagy Garbage
I've spent a bit of time in San Diego, California over the years. Two of the spots I've been lucky to surf are North Garbage and South Garbage. Both spots are in the seaside (duh) suburb of Point Loma.
Point Loma satellite photo
My girlfriend Pamela, a cool as surfy chick, scored a bit of swell there a few days ago.
This first snippet of footage is of the first day Pam went out. Pam enjoyed clean and long head-high peelers - and almost lucked into and out of her first tube. The weather in this clip is how I would generalise San Diegan weather to be (from my limited experience): often very still and overcast in the mornings.
Footage: Pamela
The second day of surfing, while bigger, wasn't as good as the first. That day, Pam was greeted with a rough entry and exit as the high tide and big swell made things challenging. The story goes that Pam made it in and out safely with no hassles. Anybody who knows me and slippery rocks knows that I'd have been all over the place like a mad woman's custard!
Footage: Pamela
Point Loma satellite photo
My girlfriend Pamela, a cool as surfy chick, scored a bit of swell there a few days ago.
This first snippet of footage is of the first day Pam went out. Pam enjoyed clean and long head-high peelers - and almost lucked into and out of her first tube. The weather in this clip is how I would generalise San Diegan weather to be (from my limited experience): often very still and overcast in the mornings.
The second day of surfing, while bigger, wasn't as good as the first. That day, Pam was greeted with a rough entry and exit as the high tide and big swell made things challenging. The story goes that Pam made it in and out safely with no hassles. Anybody who knows me and slippery rocks knows that I'd have been all over the place like a mad woman's custard!
Wednesday 5 December 2012
A friend of a friend...
About two years ago, a few months before I did, my brother went on a solo Mexican surf mission.
Towards the end of his trip he stopped at Boca De Pascuales, commonly known to surfers as simply 'Pascuales'. From personal experience, this is a very heavy beach break that can hold some serious size (I'm proud to say that when I went there, I got two backhand barrels - pig-dog style)! Adam fell in love with the place and stayed for a week before he had to head back home. While there, Adam stayed next to a bloke who he describes as a 'funny, lovely guy, but mad as a snake'. Apparently this guy next door was a very respectable big wave surfer...
Pascuales satellite photo
The story goes that my bro remembered him filming some of his surfs with a GoPro - before it got lost in the surf one day.
GoPro
Curiosity recently got the best of my brother, and led him to see if this guy had posted anything on YouTube. Sure enough, he stumbled upon this fun little clip of those very surfs:
Footage: YouTube
Towards the end of his trip he stopped at Boca De Pascuales, commonly known to surfers as simply 'Pascuales'. From personal experience, this is a very heavy beach break that can hold some serious size (I'm proud to say that when I went there, I got two backhand barrels - pig-dog style)! Adam fell in love with the place and stayed for a week before he had to head back home. While there, Adam stayed next to a bloke who he describes as a 'funny, lovely guy, but mad as a snake'. Apparently this guy next door was a very respectable big wave surfer...
Pascuales satellite photo
The story goes that my bro remembered him filming some of his surfs with a GoPro - before it got lost in the surf one day.
GoPro
Curiosity recently got the best of my brother, and led him to see if this guy had posted anything on YouTube. Sure enough, he stumbled upon this fun little clip of those very surfs:
Tuesday 4 December 2012
Bumper Bells
My buddy Gav, who also happens to be the author of 'I have a secret wave' (published under 'Good reading' on Saturday 1 December 2012), recently came back from a jaunt that saw him trip around Australia's states of Tasmania and Victoria.
Aside from showing his overseas friend a bit of our beautiful country, Gav managed to squeeze in (and score) a few sweet surfs.
Early during his Victorian leg, Gav scored a mid-week day at Bells Beach.
Bells Beach satellite photo
Photo: Gav
As you can see, there weren't too many people out. The waves had a bit of size and the conditions looked near perfect. Lucky bugger that Gav!
Photo: Gav
Aside from showing his overseas friend a bit of our beautiful country, Gav managed to squeeze in (and score) a few sweet surfs.
Early during his Victorian leg, Gav scored a mid-week day at Bells Beach.
Bells Beach satellite photo
As you can see, there weren't too many people out. The waves had a bit of size and the conditions looked near perfect. Lucky bugger that Gav!
Monday 3 December 2012
Sun-filled fun
Today's photo popped up on Facebook recently, and I thought it was well worth sharing.
Not only do the shapes and stunning colours of this shot impress me, but I also have a suspicious feeling this photo is of Knight's Beach in South Australia's Port Elliot - my old surfing stomping ground for well over a decade.
Port Elliot, South Australia
Source: Unknown
Not only do the shapes and stunning colours of this shot impress me, but I also have a suspicious feeling this photo is of Knight's Beach in South Australia's Port Elliot - my old surfing stomping ground for well over a decade.
Port Elliot, South Australia
Sunday 2 December 2012
Big hit
Just a quick note to everybody who supported me on Saturday, when 'Cuttie in your face' launched: Thank you all! I was only expecting 20 to 30 visitors, and was hoping to reach 50 if I was lucky. You guys smashed that with a whopping 153 visits!
I hope I will be able to continue to develop this blog into something even better for you over the coming months and (hopefully) years.
In the mean time, while I beaver away at this thing, I'll leave you with the image below - I think is, quite simply, 'liquid poetry'.
Source: Unknown
I hope I will be able to continue to develop this blog into something even better for you over the coming months and (hopefully) years.
In the mean time, while I beaver away at this thing, I'll leave you with the image below - I think is, quite simply, 'liquid poetry'.
Saturday 1 December 2012
Photo dump!
I've got a stash of photos I've picked up on line over time clogging up my hard drive. So much so, I need to show them here to relieve the backlog. Welcome to my first photo dump!
Hope you like this juicy little assortment:
Source: Unknown
Source: www.surflaspalmeras.com
Source: www.tracksmag.com
Source: www.surfline.com
Source: Unknown
www.swellnet.com.au
Source: www.surfline.com
Source: www.surfline.com
Hope you like this juicy little assortment:
 |
| This spot doesn't look hard to get to at all does it!? |
 |
| (Almost) Empty Mexican fun-time. |
 |
| Looking at this photo while seated at my desk gives me the urge to book a plane ticket - pronto! |
 |
| Who knows how this wave ends? Maybe with a mouthful of rock? |
 |
| With surrounding harsh lines and soft curves setting scene, this chap stays poised, relaxed and neatly slotted in the pit. |
 |
| You can go left, or you can go right. I'm pretty sure we'd all go right... |
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| 'You can't miss it buddy - it's right at the end of the street.' |
 |
| Sneaky inside bowl. |
Friday 30 November 2012
Quiksilver
Quiksilver was the first surf brand I fell in love with as a young surfer.
The cool name, strong logo, and impressive range of good looking clothes and accessories drew me in. Their long list of high level sponsored surfers, including Kelly Slater (obviously), also contributed. Because of this personal history, including the part they had in my youngest, most exciting years with surfing, I thought I'd post their web address up for you to visit if you so wish.
Quiksilver
After many years though, truth be told, I've moved on from 'Quiky' - I'm no longer that loyal customer, that advocate. They still make good looking stuff that I'm sure works pretty well, but I don't feel I have the same attachment as a surfer as I once used to. This has happened over time. From my perspective as a bit of a purist, or soul surfer, I've seen the business turn corporate and start to really chase the money - above all else, particularly surfing. I feel they diluted themselves from being a 'real' surf brand, to a company that sells surf, skate, snow and other sports gear. This doesn't sit well with me as someone who believes surfing is all about a genuine connection with the sport and 'concept' - I want the surf brands I buy to also reflect this feeling.
Regardless of my personal thoughts though, I do wish Quiksilver the best of luck in their endeavours. I guess all I'm saying is that I'm happy not being a part their new direction anymore.
Out of the barrel and into a competition
Imagine getting a really nice pit, like the one below, popping out, doing a cuttie, and following it up with an entry into my competition...
Source: www.magicseaweed.com
Well, you don't need to imagine!
My competition goes a little like this:
Submit your entry by completing this sentence: 'You really know you're a surfer when...'
The rules:
- I'm after a completed sentence and not a paragraph or paperback draft
- Maximum three entries per person (I'm going to use an honesty system here)
- All entries must be submitted by email to: l.gorajek@gmail.com
- I have permission to publish all entries in 'Cuttie in you face' (only the first name of the entrant will be published alongside)
- Entries are due by midday on Tuesday 1 January 2013, Melbourne, Australia time
- To be eligible, all entries must contain the name and complete postage details of the entrant (just in case you win the prize)
- I will judge the best entry and my decision will be final.
The winner will receive the modest prize of three blocks of cold water wax, and a nifty wax comb with built in FCS key and bottle opener. I will announce the winner, and mail out the prize, by no later than the second week of February.
Photo: Willy
To get the ball rolling, I'm going to throw this example out there:
'You really know you're a surfer when there's always sand in your bed.'
Now you know where the bar sits - good luck!
Well, you don't need to imagine!
My competition goes a little like this:
Submit your entry by completing this sentence: 'You really know you're a surfer when...'
The rules:
- I'm after a completed sentence and not a paragraph or paperback draft
- Maximum three entries per person (I'm going to use an honesty system here)
- All entries must be submitted by email to: l.gorajek@gmail.com
- I have permission to publish all entries in 'Cuttie in you face' (only the first name of the entrant will be published alongside)
- Entries are due by midday on Tuesday 1 January 2013, Melbourne, Australia time
- To be eligible, all entries must contain the name and complete postage details of the entrant (just in case you win the prize)
- I will judge the best entry and my decision will be final.
The winner will receive the modest prize of three blocks of cold water wax, and a nifty wax comb with built in FCS key and bottle opener. I will announce the winner, and mail out the prize, by no later than the second week of February.
 |
| The humble prize of gear that every surfer needs. |
To get the ball rolling, I'm going to throw this example out there:
'You really know you're a surfer when there's always sand in your bed.'
Now you know where the bar sits - good luck!
Patagonia: for surfers who care for quality and the environment
I don't know that much about Patagonia, but I'm starting to hear an increasing amount about them - and I really like what I hear. So much so, that I'm strongly considering my next wetsuit being one of theirs.
While I continue to learn more about them, I thought I'd introduce them to you, and share what I do know in the mean time.
The website is below (select your country, then 'sports', then 'surfing'):
Patagonia
In my opinion, design has a lot to do with choosing where on the 'form versus function' spectrum one wants to sit. Patagonia, I feel from my limited experience, tends towards 'function' - and they do the best they can with 'form' afterwards. For example, all of their wetsuits that I have seen are totally black (this is largely ignoring 'form'). However, this is functional as the wetsuit's job, above all else, is to keep the surfer warm - and nothing absorbs heat like black.
But I'm here to talk about their environmental cred...
Patagonia seems to be a company that genuinely appreciates the natural world around us. Hence, they strive to make products that allow us to enjoy it, and don't simultaneously deplete that very environment due to their manufacturing processes. I understand Patagonia tries to use the most environmentally friendly materials and practises, and invests in research and development to further improve these technologies.
This attention to the environment and detail does come at a price - but that's to be expected. I perceive their gear to be quite pricey. The way I see it is that anybody can pour a drum of oil down a drain for free - it's the ones with a little more conscience that incur a cost to have it disposed of properly.
I'll keep you posted as I try out their gear and learn a bit more...
Be a guru, with 'WindGURU'
This link, to weather-forecasting site 'WindGURU', is a relatively new one to me. Now that I know about it however, I wish I had heard of it sooner.
WindGURU's primary target audience seems to be kiteboarders and windsurfers. I don't think that matters too much, so long as the information provided is relevant, useful and accurate - which it seems to be!
Not only is the detail provided by WindGURU impressive, its global scope and versatility is what makes it a nifty accessory in the budding surf traveller's toolkit.
WindGURU
WindGURU's primary target audience seems to be kiteboarders and windsurfers. I don't think that matters too much, so long as the information provided is relevant, useful and accurate - which it seems to be!
Not only is the detail provided by WindGURU impressive, its global scope and versatility is what makes it a nifty accessory in the budding surf traveller's toolkit.
WindGURU
Banana & Toasted Pecan Porridge
I had this breakfast prepared for me when visiting my mates, Matt and Sare, in Port Lincoln, South Australia recently. Unfortunately, the surf that weekend didn't match the quality of this hearty breakfast.
Thank you Sare for sharing this recipe with us and taking the beautiful photos.
Banana & Toasted Pecan Porridge
Ingredients
1/2 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup milk
1 banana
8 pecan nuts
1 teaspoon honey
pinch of salt
tablespoon sunflower seeds
tablespoon pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
Method
1. Toast your nuts. If you are going to be making this recipe a lot, I would recommend toasting the whole bag of nuts at once. Set oven to 180C. Spread nuts evenly onto a clean oven tray. Toast for 5-10 minutes. Halfway through, open oven and give the tray a shake. The nuts will smell so good! Be careful not to burn them as they burn easily - and note that they will continue cooking once removed from the oven.
Photo: Sarah
2. Put 1/2 cup oats and 1/2 cup water into saucepan with a pinch of salt. Put onto the stove top at medium heat.
Photo: Sarah
3. Watch your oats and give them a stir. Once the water has absorbed, add your milk. Continue stirring over heat until the porridge is at a nice sticky consistency.
Photo: Sarah
4. Put porridge into a bowl, slice over a banana, drizzle with honey, add nuts and seeds. You can also add another splash of milk.
Photo: Sarah
5. Enjoy!
Note - for hungry surfers, you may want to add more than 1/2 a cup of oats. Use equal amounts of water.
Thank you Sare for sharing this recipe with us and taking the beautiful photos.
Banana & Toasted Pecan Porridge
Ingredients
1/2 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup milk
1 banana
8 pecan nuts
1 teaspoon honey
pinch of salt
tablespoon sunflower seeds
tablespoon pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
Method
1. Toast your nuts. If you are going to be making this recipe a lot, I would recommend toasting the whole bag of nuts at once. Set oven to 180C. Spread nuts evenly onto a clean oven tray. Toast for 5-10 minutes. Halfway through, open oven and give the tray a shake. The nuts will smell so good! Be careful not to burn them as they burn easily - and note that they will continue cooking once removed from the oven.
 |
| Toasting nuts |
2. Put 1/2 cup oats and 1/2 cup water into saucepan with a pinch of salt. Put onto the stove top at medium heat.
 |
| Oats ready for the suacepan |
3. Watch your oats and give them a stir. Once the water has absorbed, add your milk. Continue stirring over heat until the porridge is at a nice sticky consistency.
 |
| The porridge starting to take shape |
4. Put porridge into a bowl, slice over a banana, drizzle with honey, add nuts and seeds. You can also add another splash of milk.
 |
| Yum yum pig's bum! |
5. Enjoy!
Note - for hungry surfers, you may want to add more than 1/2 a cup of oats. Use equal amounts of water.
I have a secret wave
I have a secret wave, one I only ever surf by myself.
It's always a solid 8-10 foot and the emerald green lip pitches so thick and heavy that the world descends into darkness when I'm in her belly. I tell my friends about it, but they just laugh at me and think I'm winding them up.
Well screw them, it's their bad luck.
I mean, sure it isn't in the ocean - it isn't even near the ocean, but man it feels as real as only the biggest slab of chilly, imploding brine can. Each barrel I get provides those precious few moments of peace and purpose that get me through my day, and luckily, it's right where I need it; uni.
Photo: Roubs, Squeak and Mac
Photo editing: Roubs
Photo editing: Roubs
Uni has always been tough for me. Not because of the work, but
because I despise the people there – the fresh faced enthusiasm, the easy
friendships, and the optimism about the future. I like to scoff at my
classmates, sneering at their readiness to cast into the slacks and ties mould,
as though their acceptance of the status quo is a weakness. Deep in my heart I
know this to be a self-deception, but it's one that seems to provide some
definition and protection in my life, as well as some space to breathe. I'm not
proud of my condescension, in fact I wish I was more accepting. But I'm not.
The reality is people make me tetchy. The game of socialising leaves me anxious
and unsure, so I push people away and use the ocean as my crutch, my refuge.
I like the ocean, and luckily, the ocean seems to like me. Or
maybe it's indifferent and I just see what I want to see. The one thing I do
know is that in the ocean I am safe. Safe from the land sharks, the pressures,
expectations and most of all the introspection.
But surfs can be few and far between at times, especially when
exams are upon me, causing anxiety to run high. The stress peaks and it hits me
that no matter how much I deride the system around me, I am still a part of it,
and this means I must abide by their standards – the exam results count.
Damn the lie’s flaw!
Sleep becomes seldom, a whole semester is absorbed in a few days
and coffee is my friend, lover, torturer, master and slave.
It is during these times that I turn to my special leafy barrel.
I walk through it on my way into uni, my body lulling into the
familiar rhythms of the ocean, just through the power of visualisation. I can
almost feel the sand beneath my toes and the fresh smell of the salt on the
breeze.
Sure, to the eye of man the tree seems to be almost static, at
least measured in human breaths. But looked at by the universe amongst the long
and lonely darkness of time, it undoubtedly appears like a crashing wave – The
loam and the leaf litter forever drawing up and out to the tree’s tips before
plowing back into the earth as the branches arc back towards the soil, crisp
yellow leaves billowing up like white wash.
Deep in the leafy pit’s womb I assume the stance; Back knee bent
and in, front leg straight, chest up proud and strong. I drag my hand on the
bark of the trunk – more to orientate myself and for some sensual synergy than
to control my speed. After all, if you’re going to ride a meaty shack, you
might as well do it with style.
With my line set I relax and allow myself to drink in the view.
Beyond the darkness of the pitching canopy over head I can see out to the sun
dappled world, to the positive folk full of purpose, goals and dreams of
financial ascendancy. And they can see me too.
The awareness tears me from the peaceful reverie of my tree.
I wonder what they think of me, standing there in my Leafy
haven. Are they as condescending towards me as I am of them? Do they pity me?
Are they curious? Are they even really aware of me at all?
I can almost hear the chatter between them - my divergent behaviour
attracting glances. Who is
this peaceful looking man standing in a rapturous pose beneath that tree?
That’s certainly not the behaviour of someone to be trusted with the fine
details that stitch up a company’s financials. And he has that dreamy look –
seeing the arbitrary and fitting soft edged jigsaws together without care or
consequence for the maligned hard edges.
Hell, he probably hasn’t thought about the treatment of
intangibles under the new accounting standards. Or at least that was what I imagined. In reality they were
probably so caught up in their own world I barely registered, but I did
register with one person – Dickie.
Dickie is an oddity. He is an ageing accounting academic who
sports a long sun-bleached ponytail and strolls about campus in sandals, a
cigarette behind his ear. He is Sir Anthony Hopkin’s hippy body double, laid
back and at the mercy of whimsy. In his younger days Dickie had been a mad keen
surfer, something we had talked about a number of times.
He was leaning against the Law & Commerce building, smoking
a cigarette, looking straight at me. As our eyes met he gave me an almost
imperceptible nod, as if to say ‘Don’t give up on yourself Lad. The world is
full of ascetic grey men and women who can work the machine’s levers. Hold on
to that colour’.
With that I shut my eyes and brought myself back to the ocean –
to block out the introspection and pressures I saw in the world. I felt the
thrumming of the water as it cycled beneath my feet and again became aware of
the lip throwing above me. With one final breath I stepped forward and felt
myself accelerate out of the heaving barrel’s mouth, the wave's spray erupting
behind me, sending me recharged back into a world so taxing.
By Headbounce
Headbounce
Motorboat by Al Merrick
Introducing 'The Mullet'.
Well that's what I've called my 6'2" Al Merrick Motorboat by Rob Machado. The board is business at the front and party at the back.
Making the decision to get such a short, but wide and thick (read 'high volume') board, came after much umming and ahhing. During previous summers, I had seen surfers having a blast in small surf, on similar modern, chunky and flat boards. After enough visual evidence, I was convinced I wanted/needed one. But, as a chump when it comes to understanding board design, I didn't know where to start. I decided to visit as many credible surf shops as possible, to get as many ideas, and as much information as possible - hoping that something would ring a bell with me. I also decided to consult my surfing friends - a valuable source of information and honest opinion. One of the key bits of help came from my brother over email. He told me to forget about looking at board length when looking at these kinds of boards, and instead he advised me to look at volume. My brother said such boards are all about high volume. I went on to learn that many progressive board manufacturers now include volume, together with the details of length, width and thickness, when describing the technical specifications of a board.
While it wasn't overwhelmingly the most recommended board, the Motorboat by Channel Islands Surfboards/Al Merrick seemed to always appear in conversation.
I bought my Motorboat from Surf Culture, in Sydney, Australia's Bondi Junction - a store my brother had recommended after a positive experience he had buying a number of boards there.
Surf Culture
Photo: Willy
When my board finally arrived in Melbourne, with my custom pink tail (there is a chance I've got the only pink one in the world), I friskily skipped around the house piecing it together. Later that night I slept with The Mullet - as I do with all of my new boards (I imagine this will be tricky when I add a mal to the quiver).
Photo: Willy
The next day I was greeted with perfect surf to test out a small wave board: small, piddly waves. If ever the flat template was going to show its potential, that day was going to be it.
Photo: Willy
There were no photographers because everybody surfed that day - so I don't have any action shots for you.
I didn't surf great and my wave count wasn't high - it was much higher than it would have been on one of my other boards mind you. I did however, get enough of a taste to know I was going to enjoy surfing during the summer much, much more than I had in the past. The wide template, all the way from the nose to the tail, gave me heaps of buoyancy that helped in catching waves. The wide tail and thick body also kept me planing effortlessly on waves I normally would have been bogged down in.
Photo: Willy
Basically, I was delighted with my purchase!
Based on this limited experience, I would recommend to anybody who doesn't have a board of this type/style in their quiver to get 'onboard'. I think having the right equipment helps keep you smiling on those small days where you may ordinarily get a little frustrated - something I feel is worth avoiding.
Cheering!
For more information on the Motorboat, check out the official website:
Channel Islands Motorboat
Well that's what I've called my 6'2" Al Merrick Motorboat by Rob Machado. The board is business at the front and party at the back.
Making the decision to get such a short, but wide and thick (read 'high volume') board, came after much umming and ahhing. During previous summers, I had seen surfers having a blast in small surf, on similar modern, chunky and flat boards. After enough visual evidence, I was convinced I wanted/needed one. But, as a chump when it comes to understanding board design, I didn't know where to start. I decided to visit as many credible surf shops as possible, to get as many ideas, and as much information as possible - hoping that something would ring a bell with me. I also decided to consult my surfing friends - a valuable source of information and honest opinion. One of the key bits of help came from my brother over email. He told me to forget about looking at board length when looking at these kinds of boards, and instead he advised me to look at volume. My brother said such boards are all about high volume. I went on to learn that many progressive board manufacturers now include volume, together with the details of length, width and thickness, when describing the technical specifications of a board.
While it wasn't overwhelmingly the most recommended board, the Motorboat by Channel Islands Surfboards/Al Merrick seemed to always appear in conversation.
I bought my Motorboat from Surf Culture, in Sydney, Australia's Bondi Junction - a store my brother had recommended after a positive experience he had buying a number of boards there.
Surf Culture
 |
| All the bits and pieces waiting to be put together. |
When my board finally arrived in Melbourne, with my custom pink tail (there is a chance I've got the only pink one in the world), I friskily skipped around the house piecing it together. Later that night I slept with The Mullet - as I do with all of my new boards (I imagine this will be tricky when I add a mal to the quiver).
 |
| Admiring the flat (and fast) template. |
The next day I was greeted with perfect surf to test out a small wave board: small, piddly waves. If ever the flat template was going to show its potential, that day was going to be it.
 |
| I feel every board 'loses its virginity' with that first wax job. |
There were no photographers because everybody surfed that day - so I don't have any action shots for you.
I didn't surf great and my wave count wasn't high - it was much higher than it would have been on one of my other boards mind you. I did however, get enough of a taste to know I was going to enjoy surfing during the summer much, much more than I had in the past. The wide template, all the way from the nose to the tail, gave me heaps of buoyancy that helped in catching waves. The wide tail and thick body also kept me planing effortlessly on waves I normally would have been bogged down in.
 |
| The 6'2" Motorboat has a volume of 41.5 litres |
Basically, I was delighted with my purchase!
Based on this limited experience, I would recommend to anybody who doesn't have a board of this type/style in their quiver to get 'onboard'. I think having the right equipment helps keep you smiling on those small days where you may ordinarily get a little frustrated - something I feel is worth avoiding.
Cheering!
For more information on the Motorboat, check out the official website:
Channel Islands Motorboat
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