Chocolate pipes

My perception of the US' east coast is that the water there is always murky. This clip does little to change my perception of that.

What this clip does change though, is my perception that the US east coast is always small and soft. These waves are epic!

Chocolate joy

p.s. It's unbelievable how dark it gets inside the tube in this spot!

Simple curves

We surfers chase the simple things - including the simple curves of a perfect wave.

I stumbled upon this photo on line and, while not a perfect 'perfect' wave, it is pretty close. It has the ingredients I look for; a nicely tapering shoulder; a throwing lip; a smooth face; and sunshine glistening off the water's surface.

Ahhh... If only it was that easy to find...

Source: www.gvmnetwork.com/CostaRicaOverview

Long, mellow and highly pleasureable

Not every wave needs to be hollow, fast and chunky to be fun.

This spot, looking as mellow as they come, looks ultra fun to me. Perfect for setting the rail and running, or for trying a turn here and there...

Source: www.gvmnetwork.com/CostaRicaOverview

A little bit of this, and a little bit of that

Sorry, for two days in a row I don't have much time to write. Again, I hope you'll forgive me by enjoying the footage contained in the link below:

Random clip compilation

Scoring

Short on time to write much today, so I thought I'd post this juicy little piece of footage to tie you over:

A fun, hollow left

Rippin' up Western Australia

Taj Burrow, a Western Australian, usually travels the world on tour as a pro surfer. In the 'off' season, I'm under the impression he likes to head home and tear it up there.

Western Australia satellite photo

This footage shows what I often see Taj doing in front of the camera: pulling into (and out of) thick slabs and generally ripping it up!

Enjoy:

Taj rippin' up WA

When one point isn't enough...

... you need three to chose from!

Source: www.surfguru.com

Bunch of photos

Surfline is a well respected site for surfers that offers a number of features - including forecasting.

 www.surfline.com

Most features are only available to subscribers.

The below link takes you to a free part of Surfline, and contains a series of beautiful photos:

Surfline photos

Most of the photos are out of the US, reflecting Surfline's main readership base. That doesn't really matter though, since all of the shots have something special about them.

At home in a tube

Following my post from Saturday 9 February titled 'What it looks like to be deep', I was forwarded the following link from one of my readers:

Tube time clip

The guy in this clip's had more deep pits than I've had hot dinners!

I hope you enjoyed the many different breaks this guy's been shacked at, and the different perspectives he shares with us.

Pray

This is the perfect place to pray for waves...

... because when your prayers are answered, you can cash in instantly!

Source: www.wannasurf.com

Inconveinient 'reef'

There are a number of things surfers need to be mindful of when riding a wave. These can include pitching lips, steps in the wave, other surfers, random sections... and now jetties.

It is one level-headed surfer who can thread a barrel between two jetty pylons...

Source: http://www.surfingfederationofindia.org/surfing-india-gets-spiritual-boost

Surfing's simple pleasures

For many of us, the pleasure of surfing is so profound.

Interestingly though, this profound feeling comes from a simple event: standing on a board that's sliding over water.

Sound's basic doesn't it?

The thing is though, many of us end up spending the majority of our lifetimes trying to perfect this seemingly simple task of sliding over water on our boards.

Gotta love it!

Source: city.hikkaduwa.biz/surfhikkaduwa.html

Nugget

If vegetarians don't eat meat, does that then mean vegetarians who are also surfers don't surf meaty wedges like this?

Source: www.surfersjournal.com/photo

Between a rock and a wet place

Considering the size and shape of the granite boulders in the background, one gets the sneaky feeling that the reef below this playful looking wave could be just as smooth, flat and perfect. If you're used to bouncing off the bottom that is..

Source: www.wannasurf.com

Fast and slow

Some surf spots have something for everybody, offering progressive sections at various parts of the wave.

This epic point is a great example, with slow and fast sections along the line - for whatever your flavour is.

Source: www.surfline.com

Heaven on earth?

Maybe, or maybe not. But you must admit, it's not far off that mantle at the very least!

Source: www.surfersjournal.com/surf_property/el-regalo-de-matapalo

More wintery lovin'

As readership of 'Cuttie in your face' grows in the northern hemisphere, I've decided to dedicate this post to those very readers just above the equator.

I appreciate you 'Northerners' are currently in the midst of winter surfing: a time when motivation to get wet can be a tad more difficult to find. The link below takes you in particular to a clip that shows high quality waves can be found in waters normally reserved for icebergs.

Pits in the land of the maple leaf

Golden glory

Amongst various shades of black, blue, grey and white, a golden little gem sparkles for just a short moment...

Source: www.surfline.com

Another perspective from deep within the tube

On the back of the Honolua Bay footage from two days ago, I thought I'd post this follow up.

It's footage taken from the back of a bodyboard being ridden by a guy who certainly knows what he's doing.

The first barrel alone goes for ever!

Footage: YouTube

Somewhere in remote South Australia...

This photo was taken recently sometime during the recent Christmas/summer holidays.

I've only surfed this spot once, just after Christmas 2011, and on that occasion I left the water after a knock to my back from the reef below.

Originally, I was under the impression this was a well-known wave. It was only after I was suspiciously quizzed by a couple of 'locals' on how I learnt of its whereabouts, that it dawned on me that maybe this spot still has 'semi secret spot' status.

That being the case, I can't give it's location away. Sorry. The best clue I can give you is that it is on South Australia's remote west coast.

South Australia satellite photo

Happy searching!

Only one lucky bugger paddling out.

Photo: Gav

What it looks like to be 'deep'

Wow!

I've seen plenty of inside-the-tube footage in my time, but nothing's been quite as impressive as this!

I do admit the waves in this clip aren't the biggest nor the roundest barrels I've seen. But it's exactly this fact that makes Dusty Payne's surfing of these almond-shaped barrels is so impressive! I assume being deep in big, round barrels is much easier than in tight ones like these at Honolua Bay...

Honolua Bay satellite photo

Hold on to your booties as you watch this vid:

Deep pits: Honolua Bay style

If you've never been shacked before, or have only had a few in/out experiences (like myself), then I expect you'll enjoy seeing this intimate perspective that few get to experience for real.

A shady spot away from the sun

If you look closely, there's a little nook for you to get some cover from the harsh sun.

Either get in there or make sure you put on a hat!

Source: www.swellnet.com.au

While you plug away at work...

... unridden waves like this break and are lost for ever.

Source: www.surfline.com

Western Europe provides

Western Europe, often referred to as part of the 'developed world', seems to have some under developed surf potential.

These empty lines prove there is still heaps of uncrowded goodness to be surfed over there.

Source: articsurf.wordpress.com

New updates coming soon...

I've been away on a short surf trip to New South Wales, Australia for the past nine days. I'm back now so fresh posts will start coming again.

Stay tuned...

Source: www.surferliving.com

Big, open and a little bit gnarly!

I've always thought the hardest part of surfing is making the drop at the start of the ride. After that point, while the wave may continue to be challenging down the line, the hardest part is generally over and done with.

That's my biggest personal goal in surfing. I don't really care if I ever make an air or anything spunky like that, but I do want to be good enough to make drops and give myself chances at pits like this.

Can you imagine getting spat out of this tube?! You'd be hooting for weeks.

Source: www.wannasurf.com

Anticipation

This photo reminds me of the youthful excitement I still always feel when surfing great waves.

I'm an older guy now and have been surfing for over twenty one years. Regardless, I still feel mega excited and full of anticipation when I paddle for a wave like this.

This kind of of wave is a wave that is already reeling before I get onto it - making me want (and expect) more of the same further down the line. This is a wave with a handsome shoulder - guaranteeing I won't get closed out on too soon...

I love this feeling. I love being excited well before the ride begins. No matter what happens later down the line, I'm already satisfied because I've already experienced some kind of rush and worn some kind of smile - long before anything happens.

Thank you surfing.

Source: www.wannasurf.com

In amongst it

Surfing to me, and I expect to many others out there, is an experience that extends way beyond the wave riding experience itself. When we surf, and take time to look around us and take it all in, we have the opportunity to soon realise that we often share that space with other animals and spectacular scenery.

I guess for me, this is one reason why I surf and travel for surf. Not only are there many great waves out there to ride, but there are also many wonderful places to see and creatures to encounter.

Source: surftrip.ning.com