I'm an older guy now and have been surfing for over twenty one years. Regardless, I still feel mega excited and full of anticipation when I paddle for a wave like this.
This kind of of wave is a wave that is already reeling before I get onto it - making me want (and expect) more of the same further down the line. This is a wave with a handsome shoulder - guaranteeing I won't get closed out on too soon...
I love this feeling. I love being excited well before the ride begins. No matter what happens later down the line, I'm already satisfied because I've already experienced some kind of rush and worn some kind of smile - long before anything happens.
Thank you surfing.
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