A little scary last Saturday...

Last Friday night the surf report said there was 'some' swell on the way for the next day. When I got up at 4am to head down, I didn't expect to find this!!!

Photo: Willy

This spot's called 'Boneyards', and it's on Victoria, Australia's Great Ocean Road.

Great Ocean Road satellite photo

Never having surfed it before, I was glad to be the third of three guys in the lineup. I don't know if the pictures I took from the car park afterwards do it justice, but the place is thick, jacking and heavy! Like the name suggests I guess...

I only made one wave on the day - my first. It was the most critical take off I've ever made and so I'm proud of that achievement. Unfortunately that's as good as it got for me, as every wave afterwards munched me before I could get to the bottom of the face.

Fun and learning times none-the-less.

Photo: Willy