So often we surfers blink... and we miss it!

We as surfers know how fickle the ocean can be. Many things need to combine for a wave to break memorably: Swell size, direction and period; wind speed and direction; and tide. Add to that other factors such as sand movement and you start to realise how lucky we are to get good waves.

Today's post is inspired by a story I've heard about - from my friend Michael - for some time now. A story that makes me wonder: how many times have we surfers missed epic surfs, at spots that have only been 'all time' once or twice? The ocean is after all, fickle and unpredictable.

I've been hearing for some time from Michael about a period in the early '90s when the mouth of the Murray - Australia's biggest river - broke 'all time'.

Murray Mouth satellite photo

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Source: Google Maps

I've done many trips to the Murray mouth looking for this mysterious bank I've often heard about - but never seen. Every time I got there, I was greeted with what the above photo shows: nothing much to talk about.

My friend Michael was looking around on line and found the only photo (and story) we've ever seen of the time this place pumped.

Source: www.swellnet.com/forums/wax/12671?page=1

Special indeed and worth the legend.

If you want to read one account of this time, please click on the link below to go to the story (you may have to scroll down a bit):

A recital of the pumping Murray mouth

Gotta love the mystery, unpredictability and surprise of the ocean...


          Yours in pits,

Got something to share or some feedback? Leave a comment below or email me at: l.gorajek@gmail.com