Friday, 7 February 2014

Surfing at, and camping near, Trestles

When I arrived in California in July last year, as the first part of my move to the US, Pam took me camping near Trestles so I could surf it for the first time ever.

Trestles satellite photo

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Source: Google Maps

This all happened on the first day of my arrival.

The sunset on our first night of camping.
Photo: Pamela

I was lucky that Pam documented the two days with some nice photos. Thanks Pam.

To get to Trestles, you need to walk, ride, or skate under the train tracks (Each letter of 'Trestles' is spelt on each bar).
Photo: Pamela

Photo: Pamela

As warned, it was pretty crowded and I didn't catch that many waves. The waves that I did catch gave me a bit of an insight into this famous spot.

It was fun for what it was.

Me 'ripping'.
Photo: Pamela

I have great, cherished memories from these two days. Thank you Pam.

Photo: Pamela


          Yours in pits,

Got something to share or some feedback? Leave a comment below or email me at: l.gorajek@gmail.com

Thursday, 6 February 2014

Dreaming of a right

After having come back from a surf trip, surfing only lefts, then being out of the water with an injury, I'm really gagging for a righty.

I'm getting back into the water tomorrow - I hope this is what I score.

Source: surfspotsmap.com/spot/australia-pacific/australia/south-australia/salmon-hole-surf-forecast


          Yours in pits,

Got something to share or some feedback? Leave a comment below or email me at: l.gorajek@gmail.com

Wednesday, 5 February 2014

A morning watching

Last week, while still nursing my recovering foot, I accompanied my friend Chris for a dawn surf at Adelaide's Southport Beach.

Southport Beach satellite photo

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Source: Google Maps

Since I couldn't surf, I stood on the rocks and took photos.

Chris' sister-in-law Loz getting some nice speed.
Photo: Willy

As far as that section of coast goes, this kind of swell is considered quite good.

Chris turning off the top.
Photo: Willy

Since it was also an uncrowded weekday morning, Chris got a stack of waves. So many in fact that he had the old jelly-arms within two hours of surfing.


          Yours in pits,

Got something to share or some feedback? Leave a comment below or email me at: l.gorajek@gmail.com

Tuesday, 4 February 2014

Trickle

A photo to keep the dream alive.

Source: stabmag.com/a-good-year-part-one/


          Yours in pits,

Got something to share or some feedback? Leave a comment below or email me at: l.gorajek@gmail.com

Monday, 3 February 2014

More than just a surf trip

Over a week ago I came back from a very successful trip to South Australia's Cactus Beach (you don't actually surf the beach part).

Cactus Beach satellite photo

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Source: Google Maps

A definite plus was that the crowds were much lower than the one previous time I was there.

My facilities were basic to say the least. I went only with what Maslow would call the basics of life: Food, clothing and shelter. Oh! And transport. But I was more than happy with 'just' that.

Despite my very basic setup, I was luckier than most - I could fall asleep looking at the stars.
Photo: Willy

There's not too much around to keep one company out there, as Cactus is a million miles from nowhere. Nicely for me, the occasional Stumpy popped by to say 'G'day'.

One of the few friends I made while away.
Photo: Willy

I had four wonderful days of surfing - each day provided me with clean waves. I surfed a spot called Castles on my first afternoon there, with the rest of my trip spent surfing Cactus (pictured below).

Both were lefts, and I was more than content practising and refining my backhand attack.

The set waves, while lully early on, were head-high on the first three days. The last day pulsed a bit and bought overhead-high waves on the sets (again pictured below).

I was really lucky with never more than five guys in the water at any one time. Things got a little more crowded in the last 30 minutes of my last day there, with about eight of us in the lineup.

Don't let the smaller waves in the foreground deceive you: The set waves were wally and pretty fast at Cactus.
Photo: Willy

Having said that, I seemed to have the place wired and got an absolute bunch of waves. Everybody else seemed to find themselves being taken away in the current and wind only to find themselves out of the action way out on the shoulder.

BUT, while the surf WAS great, and despite surfing really well by my own standards, this will go down as much more than an ordinary surf trip for me - it will be remembered more as a soulful experience.

Every day, without fail, I went for two to three generously long walks. These walks allowed me to think, reflect, gather myself, and get back to nature.

The view from the top of huge granite boulders on one of my long walks (the beach in the far, far distance had only my footprints on it).
Photo: Willy

These walks were indeed great (I love walking), but they too weren't what made this trip for me. What made this trip special was getting stuck into a book my friends Matt and Sare lent me called: The Art of Happiness.

The majority of this book is transcripts of passages from speeches of, and interviews with, the Dalai Lama.

Link to the Dalai Lama's Wiki page

As cheesy as the title may be, the book is genuine. It's positive, easy to read and understand and, without any exaggeration, unbelievably profound. Without hamming it up at all, despite being early days, I think this book has changed me forever. And I haven't even finished reading it!

I remember, being so engrossed in the book, that every time I'd sit down to read some more, I'd mumble to myself with anticipation: 'It's Lama time' (in much the same way MC Hammer would say 'It's Hammer time!').

With no chairs, I read multiple times daily in the front seat of the car.
Photo: Willy

I would recommend this book to anybody. I suggest, if you are at all hesitant, put any pride or cynicism aside, and pick this book up. I feel there's something in here for anybody and everybody.

Now, back to surfing:

My second to last day turned out to be my last day. While the top of my foot was healing nicely from a surf-related injury of a week or so prior (see blog post of Friday 17 January 2014), I took a nice chunk of flesh off the ball of the same foot.

Post from Friday 17 January 2014

This all happened on the inside piece of reef while surfing the main break Cactus.

Having no first aid stuff with me, and not wanting to repeat having an infected wound and foot like last time, I packed up early and headed to the hospital in Ceduna on my way home.

Ceduna satellite photo

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Source: Google Maps

Before stopping in at the hospital, I popped in to the local oyster bar for half a dozen oysters Kilpatrick. What the heck - I thought I deserved a treat.

A humble exterior hides the tasty interior.
Photo: Willy


The oyster bar's contact details if you ever want to pop in.
Photo: Willy

When I finally got to the hospital (with a full belly) the nurse I got was useless! She did a very lame job cleaning up my foot - leaving it for my dad to do properly when I got back home over nine hours later.

While I wouldn't exactly call myself Tutankhamun, this foot has seen its fair share of bandages.
Photo: Willy

So I'm out of surfing action for the next ten or so days. Regardless, I have no regrets. Cactus brought me great waves and a deep, learning personal experience.


          Yours in pits,

Got something to share or some feedback? Leave a comment below or email me at: l.gorajek@gmail.com

Sunday, 2 February 2014

This somewhat speaks of me

On the back of yesterday's poetry post, I've got up a bit of momentum and I'm posting you another surf poem.

While not necessarily the best poem I've ever read, I've chosen it because I can relate to it on some level. You see, I too consider myself the kind of surfer who likes to go the extra yard to get away from the crowds. The extra yard doesn't need to be much mind you: it can just be a short stroll down the beach to get away from the crowd that's surfing right out the front of a car park...


Lone Surfer

Looking beyond the crowds
the search continues.
Hunting for the elusive
empty peak.
Not wanting to become part of the masses
nor needing the safety of numbers.
The is one
who ventures out.
At ease and finding peace
in the rhythmic bobbing
of the lonesome lineup.
Source: go-surfer.com/poems-lonesurfer.htm


          Yours in pits,

Got something to share or some feedback? Leave a comment below or email me at: l.gorajek@gmail.com

Saturday, 1 February 2014

A guilty little pleasure

Pamela once said to me: 'There are two kinds of surfers in this world: The ones that pee in their wetsuits, and the ones that say they don't.'

On the back of this pearl of wisdom, I've found a surfing poem on this very subject that I'm sharing with you with pleasure:


The Pee on Me

The pee on me it feels so nice
Warming waters cold as ice.
It tinkles up and trickles down
My suit where it does slosh around.
For hours it may fester there 
But then again I hardly care.
I actually enjoy the pee
Every time I set it free.
Sure it smells a little strange 
When afterwards I towel change,
But that’s a wee small price to pay
To have the chance to let it spray
Once or twice a chilly session
I’m unashamed of this confession.
I always try to not make haste 
As early pees just go to waste,
But now and then preemies must flow
To golden pools in sand below.
I know I’m not the only one
Who’s made those little rivers run.
So if you take a pee for granted
Be mindful of these rhymes I’ve ranted
Your pee is like a “special” friend
Hot and comforting in the end.
So when you need that shot of bliss
Just saddle up and take a piss.
 


Source: www.surfpoetry.com/blog/the-pee-on-me


          Yours in pits,

Got something to share or some feedback? Leave a comment below or email me at: l.gorajek@gmail.com