I feel way too many surfers focus too much on bragging about how big the waves they ride are. I feel, after the swell reaches a rideable height, there are so many other more critical factors that contribute to a great wave and session.
The shape of the wave would have to be up there for one.
Today's photo is an example of a fantastic wave that is, vertically at least, nothing to brag about. But put size aside, and this surfer's got plenty to rave about!
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