After trawling through YouTube a bit, I stumbled upon this juicy little piece of the same spot. The commentary is lifted straight out of Bruce Browns seminal surf movie: The Endless Summer.
The Endless Summer by Bruce Brown
I guess it's reasonable to expect that every surfer has their own definition of what makes a 'perfect' wave. It's highly probably that all of these definitions will differ - at least slightly. If I use myself as an example, my favourite waves are not necessarily the best surf spots I've been lucky enough to surf. My favourite waves for example, are usually in places where I also have some sort of connection and history with the area and people.
Despite these differences existing, which is a good thing, I still think most of us would love an opportunity to head over and surf this spot - even if for only one day.
Please sit back and enjoy more footage of this perfect, thick and fun looking wave...
No comments:
Post a Comment