Note to self

So, I tried to squeeze in a cheeky Christmas morning surf today to avoid the summer crowds. I scored small, fun and clean 'Triggs'. Triggs is on the stretch of coast on the outskirts of Adelaide, South Australia known as 'The Mid'.

Mid Coast satellite photo

At most, I shared the waves with two other guys.

I had been enjoying my surf on my new flat summer board - 'The Mullet'. It was going a treat! The Mullet was picking up waves super easy and scooting along their tiny faces nicely.

When the time came, it was time to call it a sesh and head back home. Calling it must have jinxed me. As I flicked off my last wave, trying to plop off my board into the water, my knee caught the tail and damaged it a bit.

The photo below shows the nice bit work my knee did.

My baby is now tarnished.

Photo: Willy

The lesson for me out of all of this, one that I should have learnt many years ago, is to plop into the water well away from my board in future. Otherwise, I can expect damage like this to continue to be commonplace...