This photo of me was taken that first day after my first ever surf at Honolua Bay.
Honolua Bay satellite photo
The following photos reflect a session I was quite proud of:
Photo: Pamela
I didn't make every section nor every take off. I know this is a photo of me in the foam, but the size of the foam itself shows how big the wave I took off on was.
Photo: Pamela
Pamela says I didn't take this wave below. I'm less sure. One thing I was proud of is that I committed to everything I went for. My memory tells me I went for this one.
You be the judge...
Photo: Pamela
'Here pitty, pit, pit, pit, pit. Here, pitty, pit, pit, pit, pit.' That's what was going through my mind anyway while I was searching for that elusive tube.
Photo: Pamela
At the end of it all, I had experienced a lot and survived. I was one very happy boy.
Photo: Pamela
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