Thursday, 12 September 2013

Early lesson

This morning I went for a pre work, or should I say 'pre unemployment', surf with my neighbour Kostya 'The Menace'.

It was my first Malibu Point experience. For those that don't know, Malibu is in California, USA.

USA satellite photo

California satellite photo

Malibu beach/point satellite photo

View Larger Map
Source: maps.google.com/maps?hl=en-GB&tab=ml

It was a beautiful dawn with half a foot of swell.

Looking east over part of the famous Malibu Pier.
Photo: Willy

Even so, Malibu was peeling perfectly. The crowds however, were nuts. I'm not used to fifty guys out in half a foot of swell I guess...

Perfect, long rights were on hand all morning long.
Photo: Willy

With half a foot of swell and fifty guys and girls out, I considered myself lucky to get four waves to myself in the forty five minutes I had in the water. It was a surreal surfing experience: Waves peeling through with four, five and maybe six surfers on them.

Whenever a wave came through, you'd get a healthy number of people paddling for it. I don't know how better to explain the view of all the surfers I'd see paddling towards me for any given wave, than to show you the below clip from YouTube as a demonstration:


Footage: YouTube

No comments:

Post a Comment